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Help Diagnosing code 42.

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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 11:03 AM
  #11  
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Rjolly and TechII....Thanks for all the info!
I only had the no restart situation happen once, before replacing the ICM. Once I replaced the ICM/coilpack with a used one it ran fine for three days, except for the rough idle.
When I was testing the old ICM I was distracted by a phone call and left the ignition switch in the "ON" position for about 10 minuets and the side of one of the coils melted.
When I pulled the ECM for inspection it looked pretty new and had a "Remanufactured by GM" sticker on it so it has been replaced.
Anyway, I will check everything suggested and try a newer ICM.
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 07:24 PM
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Update:
I replaced the ICM with a newer one(1995)as suggested and cleaned all the grounds. I also inspected the wiring from the ICM connector and everything seemed fine.
Took it on a six mile test drive and all seemed well, hopefully this will be the end of it! Still trying to figure out the rough idle, it got better with the new module but still is a little rough. Dirty injectors maybe?
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 10:33 PM
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Look around the engine bay for broken or rotted vacuum hoses, especially around the transmission modulator, throttle body, and evap canister.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rjolly87
Look around the engine bay for broken or rotted vacuum hoses, especially around the transmission modulator, throttle body, and evap canister.
Where is the evap canister located?

Thanks!
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 09:28 AM
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It'* in front of the left front strut tower. You'll see the top of it from under the hood.
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by rjolly87
It'* in front of the left front strut tower. You'll see the top of it from under the hood.
Thanks!
Although the lines were pretty bad changing them didn't solve the idle issue. I might just replace the intake manifold gasket as it is seeping coolant maybe that might fix it
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 07:52 PM
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That'* even assuming a vacuum leak is the cause. It'* one possible cause of many. Given that you pulled equipment off that was in as bad of shape as it was, there'* no telling. It could even be something as simple as a carbon buildup in the throttle body, or even in the cylinders (seafoam is great for that, but plan on spark plugs again).

What spark plugs did you use?
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Old Nov 4, 2017 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rjolly87
That'* even assuming a vacuum leak is the cause. It'* one possible cause of many. Given that you pulled equipment off that was in as bad of shape as it was, there'* no telling. It could even be something as simple as a carbon buildup in the throttle body, or even in the cylinders (seafoam is great for that, but plan on spark plugs again).

What spark plugs did you use?
I used the copper core Champions. I was thinking of pulling the throttle body for a cleaning. I'm a fan of Seafoam through a vac line but my neighbors aren't, usually puts the surrounding houses in dense smoke..lol
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 12:14 AM
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Pulling the throttle body and cleaning it certainly can't hurt. Just be prepared with a new gasket when you do it.

Champion copper units aren't exactly deal breakers, but the long standing recommendation of the forums is typically NGK in this particular application. Save the spark plug change for after the seafoam application.

I usually let it suck the whole thing, and then kill the engine, and let it set for a while. The restart is where all the fun is. Usually I will go straight to the highway at that point to help encourage anything out, hoping the engine will survive what I am about to do to it.
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 10:54 AM
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I think I will just pull the TB and clean it. I've done the Seafoam through a vac line a few times on different cars and it works but is a bit harsh, not sure I wanna do it that way on this 214,000 mile engine..lol
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