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Old 10-06-2013, 03:09 PM   #1
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Default Caliper Rebuild?

hello,

just ordered caliper pistons, seals for my 1997 olds 88, looks to be an easy job, I have one caliper dragging a little (brake dust a lot more) but brakes well, never noticed any stuck piston when decompressed when changing brake pads, everything moved very easy, banjoes are new and sleeves when I did pads

car now has 63k miles, planning on changing brake fluid due to being very dark in reservoir

I'm figuring the seals are a bit stiff, and or sediment along piston, I did order a brake hone to deglaze and clean up any wear marks

any suggestions or tips welcome

will be doing later next week when parts arrive from rock auto
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:37 PM   #2
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Got access to a high end scanner or Tech2 so you can do the ABS brake bleed procedure? Just in case you get an air bubble somewhere.
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Old 10-06-2013, 10:47 PM   #3
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planning on a hose from bleeder to container to catch brakefluid and prevent air bubbles.. and no, I don't have a scanner.. plan on pumping brake till clear fluid makes it through.. never had problems with air bubbles on other cars...think it will be needed?
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:01 AM   #4
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No, it was only recommended should you accidentally introduce air into the ABS module.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:32 AM   #5
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i bleed my 98 without a scanner. ive blead a ton of abs vehicles never having one, depends what you do, on some you have to go activate it and bleed them again but on my 98 i replaced all the lines and it bled fine. as far as the draggin its normally because the harware that holds the pads needs cleaned or replaced and greased so the pad cant move freely. the caliper pins needs to be cleaned or replaced and greased too, its almost never the piston unless its leaking
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:07 AM   #6
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Another reason a caliper can hang up on older cars is due to deterioration of the ID of the brake line at the wheel. The ID becomes restricted and reduces back flow when you take your foot off the brake pedal. If you are going to this length to rebuilt your calipers, I would change the brakes lines as well. Just the rubber ones at each wheel.
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:30 PM   #7
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Thanks for the suggestions, good advise, I received the seals and pistons today, got some brake fluid and some clear nylon hose to bleed into a jar so no air bubble will suck back in, just awaiting the hone to arrive

I have already replaced hardware when I replaced pads, and will re-grease...I was surprised to see one dragging,, the pistons moved pretty easy when I replaced the pads.. but I could hear it and tons of brake dust on pass side... brakes straight and does not pull, so, in a few days,, everything should be new and slick.. the current fluid is really dark in reservoir
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:25 PM   #8
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Here is the parts, just waiting on the brake hone on wed

https://www.gmforum.com/members/john...00335-4379.jpg
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:26 PM   #9
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:13 AM   #10
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I bled many a ABS optioned brake systems without a scanner. The key is to not let the master cylinder run dry during the bleeding process. Another technique is to get the old fluid out from the master cylinder before beginning the bleeding process. No good reason to run the old fluid in the master cylinder through the abs and lines, it may contain foreign particles. It will also discolor the new fluid.
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