I noticed today that the door lock button on the passenger door of my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible was stuck halfway down. and didn't move when I tried to operate the power door locks from the driver'* door. I tried pushing the button down and pulling it up and it barely moves. The problem seems to be mechanical/physical rather than electrical because when I took the door handle surround off, I could see the pin that goes into the back of the door lock button move slightly when I worked the power door locks. Right now, the only way to lock or unlock the passenger door is from the outside with the key and it takes a bit of effort to turn it. I've only had the car a month, so it may have been this way for a while and I just noticed it.

Sounds like the lock actuator is jammed up. They're like $30.00 at Rock Auto unless you get the gold-plated ones.

That'* kind of what I was thinking. I'll be putting it on my shopping list.

Cool, let us know how it comes out!

Okay, I just fixed the door lock. It turns out the actuator was working just fine. The rivets holding it in place had just sheared off because the latch mechanism was in dire need of lubrication and apparently had been for some time. Since I'd obtained a NOS genuine ACDelco actuator and needed to use the pop rivets that came with it, I decided to go ahead and put the new one in to hopefully extend the mean time between failures. Amazingly, the actuator was very accessible and this was a super easy repair. The only real problem I had was I lost the two metal spring clips that hold the little control panel in place that contains the window and door lock switches and the passenger temperature ****. Guess I'll have to harvest a few of those next time I'm out at the boneyard, unless somebody has some to spare or knows where I can source some replacements. Actually, it would help to know their official names when doing a search.

While I had things apart, I went ahead and replaced a handful of the nylon trim pins on the back of the door panel that appeared the worse for wear and did the same to the driver'* door, so now there'* minimal rattling when I open and close the doors. The driver'* door is missing enough critical plastic bits that it still rattles somewhat but it'* as good as I can get it, short of replacing the entire door panel. Guess I'll have to put that on the long term shopping list.

Wow, sheared rivets. I wouldn't have guessed that.

Thanks for letting us know how it went!

It definitely surprised me. I would have thought the plastic of the actuator body would have given way before the metal rivets, but then aluminum is a fairly soft metal. That said, not having to drill out the old rivets made the repair job quite a bit easier.

LOL there is almost always a bright side.