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Old 04-20-2011, 03:11 PM   #11
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I may have posted it wrong, I am not very good with posting and threads but I will learn just let me know when I do something wrong or if you don't get a reply. Anyway I tried the 20 minutes and 30 minutes, no start, I disconnected the battery to clear the dtc and it reset when I turned the key on
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:52 PM   #12
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sounds like your vats module may be bad, there is a way to bypass it completely
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...ypass-box.html
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Old 04-20-2011, 03:59 PM   #13
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Old 04-29-2011, 01:59 PM   #14
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Im back, still no start after installing the VATS bypass. wondering if I installed it correctly and of course any more ideas. I accessed the VATS module behind the glovebox and clipped the Dk blue wire, spliced the signal (white) wire to the blue wire going away from this module. I spliced the red to the red (12v ignition) at the module and the black to the Black & white at the module, the car started and ran for about 20 seconds and shut off. I spliced the control (other white, 50hz) to the ground to see if it would make a difference but no. I let it set with the key on (relearn) for a little over 20 minutes, no start, I still have a dtc 58..... I'm dying here!!!!
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:23 PM   #15
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you shouldnt be grounding the signal wire. did the kit you bought have two signal wires?

i think one is probably 30 and the other 50, try hooking up the other one to the cars signal wire.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:32 PM   #16
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Yeah it had 2 white wires, the way I understood it was that if one of the white wires was connected to ground it would provide 50 and if left ungrounded it would provide the 30. So you think I should switch the other white wire to the dk blue?
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:31 PM   #17
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OK, I switched wires still no start, I also checked resistance from the ignition (key) since I have access to the passkey module and I am getting 874 ohms, the key reads 887 ohms, I figure that is within tolerance right?, anyway still stuck if anybody can offer any advice or ideas. thanks...
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:16 PM   #18
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the key resistance wont matter after you get the module going. hook the other white to the dk blue. i hope though they put short protection on there because some circuits cant handle being grounded.
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:55 AM   #19
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http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/docum...ass_Module.pdf

OK, I followed these instructions with the white (control) wire not connected which should have been 30hz? The car started and ran for about 20 seconds, cut off, then would not restart. I connected the white (control) wire to ground which should have made it 50hz? no start, I then switched the two white wires connecting the "control wire to the Dk blue with the other white not connected, no start, I grounded the other white wire, no start, I connected both white wires to the dk blue... no start

VATS bypass module wires:
 Red: 12V ignition of accessories
 White: Fuel enable wire. 50hz or 30hz.
 White: Control wire. Connecting this wire to the Ground will produce Standard Vats Bypass signal (50hz)
on the signal White wire. If this wire is not connected to the ground the White signal wire will produce
older 30 Hz VATS signal used on some 90-93 PCMs
 Black: Ground
The VATS bypass wire, White (adjacent to Red wire), should connect to VATS fuel enable wire (circuit
number 229) usually a dark blue wire at the PCM, position varies depending on application: LT1, LS1 and TPI.
Typically found on Pin 25 or 30 on the red connector or Pin 55 or 70 on the Blue connector, of found on B6
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:18 AM   #20
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sorry i guess you had it right the first time, i was confused as to why they would do that. step 2 there says its possible to have a white wire on the car at the ecm.
i dont have security system schematics for your car im sure it would be alot easier to understand if i had something.
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