If you want. I was just saying that I can't tell enough based on that description to diagnose. If you just want to clarify, that'd get me going.

Different car, different behavior. Also a smaller engine to turn over when the time comes.

This is where more diagnostics are needed, as in disconnecting fuses until the current draw goes down. There could have been any number of well-cooked things moved around with the engine work that was done.

I don't know of a recorded list of each item'* current draw. This would be more of a judgement thing, like pull a fuse, pull a fuse, pull a fuse, oh look, the current draw just went down a half-amp. What was connected to that last fuse that I pulled?

Shut engine off. Plug something into it, like a cell charger with an [I have power] light on it. Remove keys, close the doors, lock the car, and walk away. Come back in a half hour. Peek in window. If the cell charger still lit up? If yes then it would seem that the cigarette lighter/power-point is not powered off by unknown forces. If you want, you could wire up another (fused) power-point straight to the battery just for connecting the solar.

QUOTE. This is where more diagnostics are needed, as in disconnecting fuses until the current draw goes down. There could have been any number of well-cooked things moved around with the engine work that was done.

Thanks for your responses. What does "well-cooked things moved around" mean? I am thinking it means aged wiring that could have become damaged (cracked or shorted) while being moved around during repair?

Yup. A given car can go for bazillions of miles (barring some other issue) with the same wires left in the same place, but move them around just once, and sometimes insulation cracks or metal (in the wire) fractures or a connector cracks and stops holding connections properly or goo/dirt/water/etc. gets in somewhere or etc.

Thanks for explaining that. I don't want to miss any clues.

Is it your opinion that .082 draw is fine? I was sent a picture of the multimeter showing that reading. I really don't know for a fact if the shop pulled fuses after seeing that reading or not but I will ask.

Could a damaged wire or anything else cause an intermittent draw?

Depends on the car, but seems a little high to me.

If it were mine, I'd try removing fuses and see what makes that number go down. This would have to be judged by what load each fuse is supporting. Like if the fuse says "cig lghtr" and nothing is connected to the cigarette lighter, and you remove that fuse . . . and that drops it by 0.7 amps, you've found a problem. If you remove the PCM fuse and it doesn't go down at all then look somewhere else. Etc.

Yes, either could.