2001 Oldsmobile aurora 3.5 power to doors
 

I have a 2001 Oldsmobile aurora that i just got a week ago. The car has what seems to be electrical problems. When i got it i noticed the windows would not go down , i figured this was due to bad regulators . I replaced the two rear after noticing how badly wore the plastic rollers and slide wires were . When i went to test the doors i noticed they get no power what so ever . There is no power to the windows , the locks , not even the door light . This symptom is constant in all doors except the drivers door . On the drivers door the windows and power lock works but the light does not ,this could be a bad bulb i did not test it . So far i have tested all fuses and relays that have anything to do with the windows , and door modules . I have noticed a 12v reading on my meter going into the module , but nothing leaves them. I it possible that 3 out of 4 modules are bad? Could the drivers side be bad ? Do new modules need to be programmed on this car? What else could cause this?

do you have drawings for this car? the ones i have access to suck but i was looking through, seems there are two power inputs and two grounds for each module and there is serial data between them. did you check both 12v's and for a good ground test resistance with one meter lead on a cleaned off spot on the car and the other on the ground pins at the connector. they could have a common ground point thats getting corroded.

https://www.gmforum.com/attachment.p...ine=1323779643

re
 

I have the service manual for the car , i have tested the 12v lines coming in . There does seem to be a common line for serial data that all the doors connect to from the driver module . I have searched online and found the common issue with these cars in a splice s302 under the driver seat . I do not have the tools to remove the seat, is there a way i can test to be sure this is the problem without taking it out ?

i doubt it, if you dont have the tools to get the seat out you probably dont have the tools to probe the serial data line to see if you are getting the signal at each module. did you make sure all the grounds were good?

re2
 

Yes i used a meter and checked the ground and pos connections , it is getting 12v across the terminals . The only thing i do not know how to test for is the serial data connection . When i plug a meter into that and ground and get random fluctuations from 2v up to about 12v , does this mean anything ? From the diagrams the data line just joins all 4 door modules in a splice under then seat. Can i disconnect the wires from the boxes and connect them all with test leads into a new splice to test them ? Wouldn't that bypass the splice and make a new one allowing them to work? Or would i cause a nuclear explosion creating giant man eating insects ? Let me know, and thanks for your help so far .

thats all you would be able to see with a normal meter. i dont know anything about your car specifically, but from installing a couple alarm bypasses i know some of them take into account the resistance of the wire, so i dont think that would work either but thats just a guess. i dont think thats your issue anyway. if the serial data was bad it would still work with each individual control just not when you tried to control the other functions with the drivers door switches.

re3
 

I said the same thing about them working without serial data. When i did a google search i find someone having my exact problem ( http://www.justanswer.com/pontiac/39...passenger.html ) . The problem turns out to be splice s302 . When i do a google search with just the term splice s302 i find more cases of simular to exact problems . My car shares so many parts with the bonneville that it's really the same car . Combine that with opening the door modules to check for damage , power going to each module , and testing the switches i can't think of anything else that could be wrong . If there is something else i can try please tell me , I've been playing around with this for about a week now.

if you take all those connectors off of there modules so none are fighting your meter, check for voltage on the line first to save your meter, then take resistance measurements from the data pins on the module connectors to the driver one. should be nearly zero, and check them to ground to make sure they aren't grounded anywhere. but if the splice is marginal you may still get continuity reading on the meter and still not work. what type of fastener do they use to hold down the seat? they sell star and hex bit sets pretty cheap at harbor freight.

this is what i was thinking but i dont know what years it applies to
https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.php?t=278980

I got the seat out and found standing water under the carpet. When i got the water out the door panel lights started working again . I still don't have power to the windows,power locks or right side mirror . I will pull out the other seat and all carpet in the morning so it can be cleaned and dried out. If that alone does not do it then i will check for wire corrosion and shorts .