2001 Olds Alero no start condition
 

Battery is good, checked starter with remote starter switch and it is good, fuel pump sound when key turned on but there is no starter. I turned on key and attempted to start the car with a remote starter switch but no go. How do I check the ignition switch and perhaps the neutral start switch? I also checked all the fuses and moved a couple relays around to see if it was a bad relay in the front engine compartment fuse box.

I turned on key and attempted to start the car with a remote starter switch but no go.

Ok, so key is "on", and vehicle is cranking over with remote starter switch applied, but no start.....what happens if you try this while spraying car cleaner into the intake? If it starts as long as you continue to spray, and dies when you stop spraying, then you have a fuel delivery problem.....if fuel pressure is ok, then the injectors are not firing...check F/P injector fuse, and check to see if the f/p relay is being grounded(it seems to be since you hear the fuel pump sound)......if you have pressure and hear the fuel pump, then you may have a PassLock problem.....need to scan for "B" codes....

How do I check the ignition switch and perhaps the neutral start switch?

To check ignition switch, turn key to "on", and see if all fuses have power...if several don't and are on the same leg of the ignition switch, then the ignition switch is bad....you can also check the P/N switch, look at the wire harness.....yellow into the harness is hot when key is in crank position.....if it isn't, then check the ign sw batt1 fuse(40a)...if you have power, now check the purple wire out of the P/N switch.... if there is no power with the key in the crank position, then a bad P/N switch.....

Thank you I will check all of this. I have a pressure gauge so I can check the fuel rail and make sure that isn't the problem. The key won't crank the starter so I'm thinking it is the ignition switch or the neutral starter switch. I would think it would crank even with low fuel pressure.

Checked all fuses and all are good and getting power both sides. I checked at the neutral safety switch and no power to the switch. I also checked the dtc codes and there is one showing for the body control module, EBCM/EBTCM U1040 as losing connection. Could that be because of a bad ignition switch or is that a separate issue. If it is the ignition switch how do you get at it in a 2002, not a 2001 Alero? It isn't mounted on the column but in the dash, do I get it from underneath, do I just remove all the lower panels under the dash pad?

Solved it! Of all the things it was the security keeping the car from starting. Did the reset of the security with a ten minute wait and the car started right up. Never had this problem before. For anyone reading this if the security light is flashing on the dash turn the key to the on position and wait about 10 minutes for the light to stop flashing. Turn off the ignition and turn back on and start the car.

U1040 is a communication problem.......chances are, it will rear it's ugly head again......it means one or more modules are not communicating with each other ......surprised a B2958 or B2960 was not set.......

When you have a PassLock or Security problem, the usual fix is a new PassLock sensor, or bad connection in one of the harnesses to the BCM......

The ignition switch is piggy backed to the PassLock sensor/lock cylinder......so where you stick your key in, the ignition switch is right behind it, on the other side of the I/P......replaced a few of them on Grand Am's by removing the instrument cluster, and then you can easily reach it....but I don't think it's the ignition switch.....

Thanks for the reply. I didn't see any B codes showing up, just the one U code. I need to take the car in for the recall on the switch anyway but that probably has nothing to do with all of this. The passlock doesn't recognize the key fob so I always have to open the door with the key, perhaps these two are related? I'll have to see how you get the instrument cluster out, I need to fish the damned flasher switch out that dropped inside the dash when the retainer ring broke on the flasher switch!

If the system fails, you find fixing the system too pricey you could consider a bypass.
There was a cheaper one sold somewhere, but at the moment this is the only one I could find.
Wait, never mind, the NewRockies one is 300.00 now, it can be purchased a lot cheaper, maybe somebody else can find a link to the cheaper version just in case it is ever needed.

The problem with the security seems to becoming more regular now, never had this problem before so I will have to look at changing the PassLock sensor. It will reset with the ten minute wait time so it doesn't seem like it should be a bad connection or it would seem like it should stay disabled. The only other thing I can think of is a failing component in the body control module but I have a hard time thinking that would correct itself with the 10 minute wait process.

Found the link to a Vats/Passkey bypass module I was originally looking for.
If the dealer quotes you too high of a price for repair, which in some cases can get up to around 1,000.00 from what I have heard, then you could have somebody wire this bypass in, and never worry about it again.
Of course you will lose the security system..
But, "A quick disconnect connector upgrade is available, so that the module can be easily remove to re-enable the factory anti-theft system and protect your car over night or at the car show. YOU CAN'T DO THAT IF YOU HAD YOUR VATS PROGRAMMED OUT OF YOUR PCM/ECM. "
The quick connect is an add on for 10.00, I'd also get =the DFVATS upgrade just to be sure it is emitting the right frequency.
It is like 55.00 plus tax, a lot cheaper than the NewRockies one..

Baker Electronix - GM VATS Bypass