Hi all.

I just finished the rebuild on the subject engine and now have just about 500 miles on it.

I have to say I am very impressed. Super tight and snappy. The only thing that was not put in new were the rocker arms, balance shaft, and pistons and connecting rods, which met specifications. New valves, valve seals, valve keepers, and valve springs. Had heads re-seated to match new valves. Resurfacing was not necessary on either the decks or the heads. Max warpage of head was .002", and GM says .010" max warpage acceptable. Used automotive grade straight edge and feelers to check. Used 3000 graduating to 8000 grit whetstones (with oil) to polish decks and head surfaces to high sheen polish.

I mic'd the cylinders and pistons (fastidiously), and was within GM specs for piston-to-bore clearance. Honed the cylinders. Plastigauge-checked rod and main bearing clearances before final installation. Otherwise, everything new from frost plugs, piston rings, crankshaft, camshaft, cam bearings, timing damper and timing gears/chain, oil pump, balance shaft bushing/bearing, engine seals and gaskets, oil pickup tube/basket/screen, new knock sensors, new cam sensor, new cam sensor interruptor magnet, new crank sensor, air temp sensor, new throttle body with new MAF sensor and other sensors new with it (idle, throttle position), new intake manifold pressure sensor, new upper intake plenum with new PCV valve and heat riser tube, new lifters and push rods, new water pump, new alternator, new spark plugs and new plug wires, new ignition coils, new fuel injectors, new fuel filter, new EVAP purge solenoid, new EVAP valve solenoid and new EVAP canister, new radiator and radiator hoses, new air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, new oil pressure sensor, new fuel pressure regulator. EGR valve fairly new (will be replacing it soon for consistency of rebuild). O2 sensors relatively new (upstream and downstream). New engine and transmission mounts and struts. New starter. New exhaust gaskets at front and back end of catalytic converter/flex pipe, relatively new catalytic converter. Of course new head bolts. Brand new from the dealer main cap bolts and side bolts, as well as brand new rocker arm bolts. New oil pan drain bolt and gasket. New EGR riser and gas tubes. GM did not require replacement of the rod cap bolts, re-used them (they're knurled). New metal coolant bypass elbow, available from Dorman (replacing the factory plastic one) that connects the belt tensioner assembly coolant gallery to the lower intake coolant gallery, new o-ring on the tensioner assembly-to-front-cover coolant gallery insert.

Thoroughly hand cleaned every appendage/bracket attaching to motor, including valve covers. NOTE: ran all these through the dishwasher for a few cycles each, including all bolts on the engine, before hand cleaning with solvent and wire wheel as applicable (gasket surfaces, bolt threads). The dishwasher does wonders!

Every single fastener in and on the engine was shine-cleaned with a wire wheel, torqued to spec using the GM SI software disc, which provides torque specs for every single fastener on the entire car. Used permanent strength high temp loctite (it'* green for the high temp, not red) on front and rear cover bolts and upper and lower intake bolts, and some other bolts like the two that hold the oil pickup tube, etc., never-seize on all exhaust bolts/studs. A few dabs of new engine oil on all bearing bolt threads (as advised). New exhaust crossover studs from dealer. Used high-temp thread sealant on flywheel-to-crank bolts, as Fel-Pro warned possible oil seepage around these bolts in cases where manufacturer tapped bolt holes too deep into crank entering internal oil gallery of crank.

Bought the following Kent Moore GM-shop "J tools" for the job (used off ebay):

1. Valve guide installer
2. Balance shaft bearing installer (I have a separate post discussing the proper way to use this tool and locate the seating of the bearing correctly)
3. Rear seal cover alignment tool
4. Rear oil seal installer
5. Front oil seal installer
6. Balance shaft installer
7. Main bearing cap remover/installer tool

I removed the old cam bearings with a generic cam bearing tool and had the machine shop install the cam bearings when they magnafluxed and hot-tanked the block. Used a generic valve spring compressor tool and piston ring pliers. Used generic slide hammer to remove balance shaft and main caps.

In short, if anyone has any questions or wants any tips on rebuilding a 3.8L (231 CID) Buick VinK Series II engine, I'd be happy to help.

Cheers

Oh, forgot to mention that the harmonic balancer was not replaced. I considered replacing it, but it is an expensive part, and shouldn't be an issue.

Cool!

Thanks for the write up!