1989 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham-Need Help
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I
new plan: check out your TB. If your screw was missing... how much you wanna bet someone was playing with it and didnt put it back together right or wore the shaft down and now it cant meter air. i would look at an identical junkyard car if you can. i wish i pulled the TB on my cousins 88 lesabre when i had the chance, i would give it to you. i can show you pics of mine???? show me your engine bay?
new plan: check out your TB. If your screw was missing... how much you wanna bet someone was playing with it and didnt put it back together right or wore the shaft down and now it cant meter air. i would look at an identical junkyard car if you can. i wish i pulled the TB on my cousins 88 lesabre when i had the chance, i would give it to you. i can show you pics of mine???? show me your engine bay?
Im pretty sure I got that when I changed the ICM, but I've been under the hood so much it all kinda blurs together. I'll pull it and check when I get home from work though. I'll get those pics too.
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my 91 Olds Toronado had a high idle and it turned out to be a bad connector at the TPS. I also found the IAC and MAF connectors looking bad. replaced the TPS connector and it fixed my problem, then did the others.
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This has also been on my mind for a while. I just noticed the clip on the IAC was broken as well..
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Alright y'all, after installing the new Idle Air Control valve it runs a million times better. Still having a little surging issue and rough idle, but I can almost guarantee that'* because I (like an idiot) forgot to make sure the TPS was lined up with my marks after I pulled the TB apart. So now ita throwing codes 22 and 34, which means it'* saying the throttle isnt closed all the way.
Now on to another issue. There are two steel lines below the throttle body. I have come to believe that these are coolant bypass lines. One goes from the block to the TB, the other goes from the TB to the intake. Well, the one that goes from the TB to the intake was seized up in the TB, and snapped the tip off inside the TB.
How much of an issue would it cause if I tapped threads into the intake, screwed in a nipple fitting, and just did a straight connection between the two?
Or could I just cap them both off and be done with it?
Now on to another issue. There are two steel lines below the throttle body. I have come to believe that these are coolant bypass lines. One goes from the block to the TB, the other goes from the TB to the intake. Well, the one that goes from the TB to the intake was seized up in the TB, and snapped the tip off inside the TB.
How much of an issue would it cause if I tapped threads into the intake, screwed in a nipple fitting, and just did a straight connection between the two?
Or could I just cap them both off and be done with it?
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The coolant passage is intended to go to the throttle body to prevent throttle body icing. Some have bypassed it on other gens, and I have never heard of any issues come of it. I wouldn't hesitate to bypass it unless I was going to be facing harsh winter conditions.
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UPDATE: So I fixed the leak and drove it to work today. Ran fine the whole way there. 7 hours later I try and start it up and it'* back to the same old *%#t again. Hard start. Fouled the plugs. Cleaned them. Got it running. KO'd a ¼ mile down the road. Killed the battery trying to start it. Towed it home.
SOS!
SOS!
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Awesome. That'* what I was assuming, as I've done things like that on older vehicles. Believe it or not this is actually the newest vehicle I've ever owned.
God, how I miss the good old days of naturally aspirated engines. Spark air and fuel is all you need. No sensors. No computers double checking your work...