Tools -

* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.



1.) PITMAN ARM




* Pulled my truck into the garage onto ramps, make sure your tires and steering wheel are as straight as possible, and I am cautious so I placed a wheel chock in front of 1 rear tire, and behind the other.
* Removed the plastic skid plate (5 bolts)
* Removed the nut off the pitman arm where it attaches to the center link
* Used my ball joint fork (some call it a pickle fork) slipped it between the center link and the grease boot on the pitman arm and tapped it with a 3lb hammer til the tapered end broke loose from the center link. Best route I found was to stick the fork over the cross member for a straight shot.
* Now that its loose from the center link, I removed the large nut from the steering shaft that holds the pitman arm on all I could find to fit the nut was a big adjustable wrench, it was VERY tight. Set this nut and lock washer to the side because it will be re-used.
* After fighting with it and trying to be a hero by removing it without a puller I found it impossible and went the other way with it. My steering box is held on by three bolts through the frame. Very easy to loosen the top bolt, and remove the bottom two which will allow you to push the steering box from the front toward the rear and slip a pitman arm puller on it.
* Once the puller is on go ahead and crank down on it. My steering wheel is broke and no longer locks when the truck is off, so I had to take a steel pipe and run it up through the motor and down to the floor to hold my pitman arm from spinning the shaft when I tightened the puller. Even after attaching my pipe to the ratchet for more leverage the arm didn't pop off till I tapped it once with my 3lb hammer.
* Once you have the old one removed, be sure to put your grease fitting in the new one, and re-install. The steering shaft has notches in it, so as long as your tires and steering wheel are straight the arm should go on with no issues. Tighten your nuts on the shaft and the center link, and place your cotter pin in the slot if you have one. Give it one good shot of grease once installed, and be sure you have re-attached your steering box.