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Mechanical "If it moves, rotates, spins, pings, shakes, or goes clunk, here's how to fix it -- without duct tape. MAny area's of Mechanical help for our GM produced cars and trucks.

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Old 01-21-2011, 09:13 AM   #1
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Default Idler arm

Tools -

* Ball joint fork = 9$ at Advance Auto Parts
* Large adjustable wrench = $14 at Lowes (Kobalt)
* Piece of pipe to slip over wrenches and break things loose
* Breaker bar = $18 at Advance Auto Parts
* Pitman arm puller = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Ball joint removal tool = Free rent from Advance Auto Parts
* Grease Gun = $20 numerous places
* Full set of sockets
* Large Crowbar
* Good heavy hammer
* Large socket for axle nut, mine was 35mm
* I don't know how much your parts are going to be. I bought all mine off ebay I think my total after everything was $80 for OEM.


* Same scenario as the pitman arm, truck on ramps, remove plastic skid plate, and remove the nut from the tapered end on the center link. Use the ball joint fork to separate it from the center link.
* Then, the large end of the idler arm is attached to a large pivot, in my case, it had two large bolts going through it. Remove those two bolts, and take the entire assembly from the vehicle (arm and pivot)
* I put my idler arm in my bench vise with the pivot facing DOWN. Removed the nut holding the idler arm to the pivot. Then I carefully tapped it with my hammer til the pivot fell off.
* Now, put the pivot in the vise with the shaft facing up, and attach the new idler arm. In order to tighten the nut I had to tap the new idler arm onto the tapered shaft on the pivot, not hard, but just enough to hold it.
* Now, after tightening the nut, put your grease fitting on, and you should have the entire assembly ready to install. Place the end back into the center link, put the nut on, and leave loose. Then re-attach the pivot in its designated area and tighten it down. Attach cotter pins if available, and double check your work for any errors. Give it one good shot of grease as well after installation.
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