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Old 12-03-2002, 07:35 PM   #1
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Default Useful 1/4 Mile Info

I suggested this to a fellow in the 1992-1999 topic forum but thought others might be interested in this information if they're big on the drag-racing. A lot of these are general DR tips that some people 'round this parts might not be familiar with. ( I come from a heavy-sports car background and I know a lot people here are more into the "luxuries" of the bonneville)

For a supercharged application there is A LOT more cheap stuff you can do to go fast and maybe I'll sit around and type it up. I think it should be possibly to get a Series II SC power plant into the 13'* with some junkyard parts and some creativity.

"Home Depot Motorsports" presents ... Into the 14'*...

'98 SLE
* 215 hp ( I think, if it'* more, then sweet)
* Assuming a set of good tires would help
* 3800 wet lbs.
* Nominal Altitude (read: you're not in Denver)

You should be able to run a mid-15 with a good launch and no modifications what so ever.

Next Step: Low 15'*
Yours is pretty new so you shouldn't need to do any regular maintenance, but get yourself a set of "colder" plugs. $10

Don't waste your time or money on a set of "Performance" wires ... the 1/2 horsepower they'll provide isn't worth your time.

I would suggest at the track just running without an air filter. Take off the filter and the nozzle leading to it. I do this on my '92 when I run her. (I've hit a low 15) Don't worry about a "Cold Air Intake" The bonneville'* intake doesn't pick up hot air... it gets it from right behind the frickin' headlight. -- Free

Don't worry about hurting it... the run will only last 15 seconds.

Get a bag of ice on the engine before the run. Colder engines = happier runs. -- $5

Take all the **** out of the trunk. Saved me nearly 50 lbs. And that'* worth a tenth. I didn't have amps and subs so if you've got those then you're really looking at a weight savings -- Free

Use steel 15-16" rims from the junkyard. They weigh less than those fancy *** mag rims. Make sure they're nice an knobby (less resistence). This can be free if you take a "late night discount" from the junkyard or "know the guy at the counter." Otherwise you'll pay like $20

Take off your muffler. The cat will provide enough back pressure for all intensive purposes. -- Free + Frustration of rusty exhaust pipes.

If you're really ambitious ... Take out your passenger and rear-seats... that'* nearly 150 LBS!!! That power front seat is HEAVY! And even if it'* not power, you're still looking at saving 100 lbs. (w/ the rear seat) -- Free + Frustration of Interior parts and nekkid looking car.

Run a half-tank of gas (less weeiiighhtt!!!) -- Free

Horespower Increases:
~15 Horsepower for the Airfilter
~5 Horsepower from the plugs
~5 From cooling it down between runs (this is more significant on a SuperCharged engine but the trick still works)
~10 Horsepower from removing the muffler
+35 Horsepower = 250 horsepower

Weight DECREASES:
~10 lbs Muffler
~125 lbs seats
~50 lbs Junk in Trunk
~25 lbs steel rims in back
~25 lbs less gasoline
-235 lbs = 3565 lbs in the car

Expected 1/4 mile time: 14.63
Cost (High Estimate) : $35

How does that sound?

-Duck
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Old 12-03-2002, 10:35 PM   #2
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Sounds good if one is really in to drag racing. It sounds like a lot of tearing apart at the car to get the times down.
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Old 12-03-2002, 10:53 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Sounds good if one is really in to drag racing. It sounds like a lot of tearing apart at the car to get the times down.
That is sorta part of the art. However, the only "MAJOR" tear down is the seats. You add on about 3 tenths for keeping them in.

-Duck
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:02 PM   #4
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Ya. Must be rough getting those in and out huh?
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sol
Ya. Must be rough getting those in and out huh?
Haven't done it in the bonneville yet. in the MESStang it takes me about 15 minutes. I'd assume it'll take about a 1/2 hour - 45 minutes because I haven't done it before.

And honestly ... it'* not that difficult. It'* cheaper than buying a whole ton o' ****.

-Duck
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:23 PM   #6
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Default How to run a 14'* with a 92-94 non-sc'ed 3800

Hey, my first post on this site!!
Anyhow, 'back in the day' (how I miss it -oh, yeah, that'* why I'm getting another Bonneville) when I was driving/pimpin in my 92 Bonneville SE before it was rear-ended in May I had done some modifying to it so I could run it at the track and show it on the boulevard.
For power I had cut the catalytic convertor out and put a straight pipe in it'* place, put a cheap $15 cone filter on, NGK v-power plugs, 9mm wires, and a 180* t-stat. I always ran 92-93 octane gas and Mobil 1 10w30 motor oil.
I am guessing the with the mods my engine was probably putting out around 200-210 hp. I say that because raced my friends 1995 Bonneville SLE about a dozen times and I always beat him by about two car lengths in a block.
With these mods done to the engine and no stripping of the interior or trunk I could run a 15.1 @ 87 on the G-tech. After stripping the trunk, back seat, and the majority of the interior trim I ran 2 times with the G-tech. The first one netted a 14.6 @ 90mph , and on the next run I got a 14.7 @ 92mph with a bit of wheel spin. Would probably have had lower E.t'* and more mph if I hadn't been using the heavy 16" vogue rims and 235/60/zr16 custom built radial tires. They weighed 5 lbs more each versus a factory 16" rim with a 225/60/16 GoodYear Eagle GA.
Anyhow, I have got to say, that I was very happy considering the car weighed 3556 lbs with a full tank of gas, and me (150 lbs) at the local truck weighing station. After stripping it and only a half tank of 93 octane it weighed 3203 lbs.
Some people might laugh a stripping a car, but every 10lbs you strip from your car is equal to gaining 1hp without stripping. Therfore, I would have gained the equivalent to 35.3 hp (I had stripped 353 lbs from the car).
Hope this helps those who are wondering how to get the most from their 1991-1994 3800.
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Old 12-04-2002, 12:39 AM   #7
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Hmhh i don't know where you get that steel rims weigh more then aluminium rims cause they don't as long as you are running rims of equivelant size.

The density of steel is about 485 lbs per cubic foot.

The density of aluminium is 165 lbs per cubic foot.
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Old 12-04-2002, 01:41 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azwed
Hmhh i don't know where you get that steel rims weigh more then aluminium rims cause they don't as long as you are running rims of equivelant size.

The density of steel is about 485 lbs per cubic foot.

The density of aluminium is 165 lbs per cubic foot.
Ever compare the weight of a rim off of your car to a cheapy steel rim? There'* a BIG difference ... mostly in favor of the steel rim... because they make them so thin.

-duck
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Old 12-04-2002, 01:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theduckylittle
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azwed
Hmhh i don't know where you get that steel rims weigh more then aluminium rims cause they don't as long as you are running rims of equivelant size.

The density of steel is about 485 lbs per cubic foot.

The density of aluminium is 165 lbs per cubic foot.
Ever compare the weight of a rim off of your car to a cheapy steel rim? There'* a BIG difference ... mostly in favor of the steel rim... because they make them so thin.

-duck
Or aftermarket aluminum rims take off more weight.
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Old 12-04-2002, 02:06 AM   #10
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I whole heartedly agree that the aftermarket aluminum rims are lighter. But they cost money.

The point of my post was for those on a budget (me) and others here would be interested.

-Duck
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