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Old 03-26-2007, 02:16 PM   #11
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TTT to bring this up. I am getting to the point that I will pay the person who figures out what I botched, or what is not right. $50 to whoever can at least point me int he right direction of what I'm overlooking. That'* right! $50, paypal, money order, cashiers check(if I can get one that small). Hell, if you want to show up at my house and give it a crack, I'll give you $50 on the spot! I know that is cheap, but I'm just about tapped out of money for this month. Plus, if you can get it right, at least it'* $50 more than you had. I am 100% serious. $50 to whoever points me in the right direction. No idea is a bad idea. It may have been attempted already, but don't let that discourage you!

I miss my car!!!!!

*edit* Wren, what all is used to calculate the load? Maybe I have a wire crossed/pinched somewhere that is screwing it up? I don't know, just trying to get to the right wires. I don't want to go over the 60 some wires individually as that would be extremely time consuming.


*edit* If anyone wants the entire nitty gritty one every little thing I've done, pop me a PM, or ask here and I'll do my best to get it all out.
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Old 03-26-2007, 02:19 PM   #12
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Doug..I understand your frustration. I'm basically there on my car. However we should stop for a moment of humor and a possible cause.

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Originally Posted by MyLittleBlackBird
Size 10.5 Riddell. Them puppies cost $4.00 and don't owe me a thing at this point. They are still quite comfy.
(Please send my $50 now)


I'll be asking my Ford buddies what I can tonight.
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Old 03-26-2007, 07:40 PM   #13
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Alrighty, screw my previous post about PMing me for the nitty gritty, here it is, in all of it'* glory.

183k 4.6L SOHC
Race built 4R70W out of a 2k Crown Vic with a modified valvebody plate, late model springs, 8 tooth output shaft, forced tailshaft lube, extra clutches, deep sump pan. The harness has been repinned to the factory spec of the 2k CV so that my EEC can communicate to the trans. I installed new gears at the time I put the transmission in, had a custom chip burned to account for the 8 tooth output shaft, and the new gears. I have tried two OSS'* and two VSS'*, as well as installed the appropriate gear combined with the speedcal to give my speedo accurate readings. The TC is from a 2004 Mercury Marauder which has been rebuilt by the same guy that did the transmission(transmissions are a side job, he specializes in TC'*). I am using the old style MLPS as my car can not use the newer ones. I also have the appropriate EPC/SS/TFT/TCC solenoids.

I have since tried repositioning the MLPS, verified that the valve body is torqued to spec, installed new valve body gaskets, tried two pairs of SS'* and one TCC solenoid. I have replaced the EEC with one reman, and also tested it with a known good EEC out of another car. A new TPS, which still reads 20% throttle at 0% throttle.

I read 30% load at idle in park. 3% rich on both banks, an EGR Flow malfunction(P0400), I have TC lockup in 3rd and 4th gear. When I attempt to drive, the car is attempting to go into high gear w/ lockup before it even reaches 20 mph on the speedo. The speedo gear and speed cal made absolutely no difference, nor did the tune, the different sensors, solenoids, etc. All wiring has been double/triple/quadruple checked in all area'* that it is relevant. I have one EDIS in the mail to be here Wednesday to try and get an idea if that'* part of my problem(rev thing), and I have one new one that I'm hopefully getting in about a week from now.

Manual 1st and manual 2nd work, but as in my earlier video, limit me on revs. No governor is in place, as I CAN get past the limit in manual 1st with the wheels off of the ground. I can not downshift into manual 2nd or 1st when shifting from D, nor do I have any form of "downshift" in D when I go WOT. It hold whatever gear it'* in or upshifts. I can buy that I MAYBE pinched the EGR wires, but I can also buy that the EGR valve got crapped up when I had the bare manifolds there.

I have rewired the entire harness for the EEC, one wire at a time, to try and remove any potential breaks. No luck. I'm at a loss here guys. All I have to go off of is a couple things you can recommend. Otherwise, I'm stuck having to get the trans out, or towing the car to Ohio to have the guy who built the thing look at it. I have an idea on one thing to test that I haven't yet, and that'* to see if the computer is commanding the solenoids to turn on/off, or if it'* somehow being done hydraulically.

Post your thoughts! I know I've missed something!!!
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Old 03-26-2007, 08:04 PM   #14
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Ever think about exhaust? I can't remember... do you still have a cat somewhere back there? Check for a cat or something else clogged in the exhaust. Would the ECU tell the engine to run at a higher RPM in idle to keep it running if there were an excessive amount of backpressure? Maybe it'* worth a look.
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Old 03-26-2007, 09:03 PM   #15
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Have you adjusted the TPS to .98v? The EEC doesn't see the throttle opening or closing, all it sees is the voltage from the TPS I'm pretty sure yours is adjustable.
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Old 03-26-2007, 10:09 PM   #16
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TPS is actually pretty much set in stone with steel inserts lining the holes for the shitty phillips head screws(loc-tited in no less). I ran an experiment here to figure out what the deal is. I found this.

I pulled the TPS off and let it sit in the engine bay with the engine running. While running and unhooked from the throttlebody, the TPS still registred a 15% throttle reading with absolutely no input. When installed it was reading .96 or .98 volts and at WOT it was 4.63 volts. With this in mind, and the digimoto hooked up, I decided to disconnect the TPS entirely. Upon unhooking it(engine still running) the TPS reading on Digi went to 0% and the load value actually dropped down to 25%! A step in the right direction methinks! The car proceeded to throw a code for the TPS disconnected, as well as a Fuel Flow Circuit/Open code(P0001). I couldn't find the circuit/open code in my book anywhere, but I am attributing it to the fact that the TPS was disconnected. I'm strongly considering getting a brand spanking new TPS and trying that out. I'm going to disconnect my battery first and let it sit overnight, hook the TPS up, and see if it will zero out on the EEC reading like it was before.

So we have learned something here, the TPS, while off, was not the culprit. So what else goes into load calculations?
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Old 03-27-2007, 03:38 AM   #17
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How does it run/drive when cold?
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:53 AM   #18
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Ok..let me toss this in there.

Knowing that Fords tend to have electrical issues due to the large numbers of connectors in line. Have you pulled apart each and every (swear if you'd like) connector to check and dielectric grease them?

The TPS, if that wasn't getting the proper ground, would it go high like it is? Maybe you are having a battery/cable/corrosion/lack of ground issue?
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:24 AM   #19
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Popatim, don't make me smack my head and say "****ING DUH!" The car does run pretty crappy when I first start it, but I have been attributing that largely in part to the reman EEC that is in it. I had a friend ship me a good EEC and I tried it, but didn't get the nasty start/stutter. I have a MAF being dropped in the mail today or tomorrow, a test EDIS will be here tomorrow, and I will try that out to see what happens.

Boosty, I had that suggestion passed over around December. It was an excellent idea, but rather than running around and finding all of the grounds on the car, I grabbed a 4 gauge cable and ran a ground strap from the battery to the firewall. If you feel this was an insufficient method, please let me know and I'll go do it the right way.

I haven't gone and checked all of the connections in between. It'* quite the pain in the *** to go over all of the little connectors Ford likes to use(as I'm sure you know). However, I can most certainly dig them up and make sure they are okay. The car IS 183k old, after all. Anything is possible.

I need to pick up a piece of vac line so I can test the EGR without removing it from the car(PITA!).

Right now, I'm kinda shotgunning parts at it and going over the small things, as it'* probably something so small I haven't gotten to it yet causing the problem.

This is what I know at this point, and you guys are keeping me motivated on checking things. Thank you, and keep up the good work! We'll get this damn thing hammered out yet!
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:47 AM   #20
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See the Bob thread ...I'll have you out there in the dark working on it.

Ground from battery to firewall may not be the right thing. Try hooking that ground directly to the ground wiring that goes to the sensors.

On the connectors... you and I both know, a Ford mechanics first thing on a car with an electrical problem is to check/clean every one of those F'n Ford connectors.

When I believed I had a ground issue..I removed conduit, electrical tape and found Splice X.. I understand the desire to not do it.

Ask yourself this Doug.. how pissed will you be if it'* a connector causing you to not have baby up and running for a couple months now? Check them.. even if it'* not, then you know the deal.

Run back through all the things you did to the car in order. It ran, but had a trans issue. Anything else added/changed before this problem started?
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