Yes they are usually self tapers that are pretty worthless when you crank them back out.

well i talked to my mechanic, and he concurred with you guys about most everything, said that ppl break them all the time and dont even realize it, and that its not dangerous unless it were to break in a high speed corner or something...of course i said "well i have a tendancy to do that" he just laughed and was like "well...i dunno"..

he did mention though, that it couldnt be welded due to the fact it was made of spring steel? go figure.

but he said if i could come up with one hed be glad to put it in for me...so ill put that on my list.

as I mention Hoov junkyard time I haev seen them brazed before.

oh yeah def junkyard time, theyre about 80 something from GMPD, so ill just snag one from a junkyard.

i am worried about labor costs though, i hate paying probably over 100 bucks easy by the time its all said and done for something that isnt absolutely necessary....but i would like to go back to my usual driving style at some point without fear of that thing snapping while im taking corners at 30-40 mph over the recommendation

I think the danger has been a little over stated, I've always driven aggressively and havent even noticed a totally broken link untill I seen it. Just dont do any drifting!

Pretty much confirms what I was thinking before I read the post. Welding, due to the temerature of it, plays around with the hardness (increases) of steel.

Harder = more brittle. And you don't want a brittle swaybar, that'* just asking for it to go *SNAP* :o

The sway bar is scap metal. It can be welded but the procedure must be done by someone who knows how to pre-heat, weld and anneal without changing the atomic structure of the metal.

Toss it and let it be the excuse to upgrade to a larger diameter. Too bad they don't make solid bars for them.

There is a strong danger of oversteer causing a sudden spin out if it did break under hard cornering.
Once it has broken, it will lean to the extreme in corners and oversteer in slick conditions.
Stabilitrak may assist with that.

would i have to upgrade the rear sway bar as well if i do the front? what other little odd and end parts would i need to do that?

also im not really sure that an upgrade is practical given the fact im going to a junkyard, the only info ive found on this is this site right here http://gs.tolan-hoechst.com/partslist.htm#Suspension

that site actually shows the Intrigue as having a larger swaybar than the Impala police package....it also shows the GP as having a smaller swaybar, whereas GMPD lists the same part # for both the Intrigue and the GP....i plan to measure mine to see roughly where it falls and then ill plan accordingly

Ah yes but notice that the police bar and others that are smaller diameter are actually solid not hollow like yours.
A solid bar is far stiffer than a hollow one. The only trade off is a little weight.

Go solid

No need to do the rear bar unless you want to tune for neutral handling.
Stiffening up the front will promote understeer which is safer than oversteer.

Stiffening up the rear will promote oversteer. It'* a fine balance.