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Old 06-28-2006, 02:53 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
yeah it has to use more gas to accomodate the new speed to the trans without having the car stall...i would say use the brakes...they are cheap compared to a trans

oops did not look at the whole thread....its alreayd been said...OOPS!
Yes and no. I still haven't found the solid answer yet though. The engine isn't working though, there is no load, and it needs NO combustion to keep it going....the wheels are doing that. If fuel stopped the engine would still be "running," but it would have to add fuel again when you push the clutch in. Is it that smart?
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Old 06-28-2006, 02:59 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELMACHOGERACHO
i dont kno how much but u are using more gas and wearing on the clutch

i dont downshift, i just use the brakes. the way i see it is, brakes are much easier to change than a clutch
Got that right

Downshift if you're just slowing and will then accelerate again after. Use the brakes if you're coming to a stop, leave the car in gear while decellerating until the revs drop to about 1200 rpms.

Cheers,
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Old 06-28-2006, 03:28 PM   #33
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DO NOT SHIFT YOUR MANUAL WITHOUT THE CLUTCH
I see people do this every day in all kinds of cars, you will Wear out your Synchronizers in a hurry, these tranys are NOT mean to be shifted like that, i garuntee it, hell, ill bet money on it.
The only transmissions that are MEANT to be shifted like this would be a Eaton Fuller 13,15, or 18 speed transmission (yes same guys that make our SCs) They can be shifted without the clutch AROUND the 2200-2500 rpm range, considering most redline at 3200, thats not bad.
Use your clutch, but try not to downshift to slow down, your clutch will slip horribly on the pressure plate, turning it blue from heat, and glazing the surface of the clutch disc itself, considering, its going to be an Organic faced clutch.
A ceramic face 4-6 button cluch probably is not avail for your vehicle, which is probably for the better, the clutch is the fusable link in the drivetrain, you want that to wear out before your trans..
Food for though! lol
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:39 PM   #34
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You don't use more gas, there'* no way for the PCM to trigger more fuel flow if the throttle plate'* shut, and the MAF is reading low air flow for the RPM'*.

Clutch wear while down shifting, there'* a right way and a wrong way to do it.....The best way is to pop the gas quick before you let the clutch out to match your engine spped to your travel speed for that gear. Pretty much like double clutching. Takes a little getting used to to do it that way, but that'* allowing for minimal if any wear on the clutch while downshifting.

This stuff'* easy for me from driving cars and semi'* with out the clutch, really you only need it for first and reverse if you know what you're doing

**EDIT**.....

Matt.....not using the clutch doesn't do **** to the syncro'* unless you either grind the **** out of the gear or totally wrench it in there.....The tranny'* will hold up to it TRUST ME. I've owned 1 manual, and driven 2 manual light duty pickups, put 80K roughly on the one I owned with driving with out the clutch, and tranny shifts like new, and over 100K on each of the light duty trucks that I used to drive at the salvage yard and never had ONE issue with tranny'*.

You guys just must get all the bone head'* up there

My trans shop even says so :P
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:44 PM   #35
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You guys are making it really tough though...someone says one thing, the next person says the complete opposite.

So, this is what I am doing:
-Engine braking in 3rd and 4th like before with throttle blips to rev match
-shifting USING the clutch
-using 4th gear going down steep hills.
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:56 PM   #36
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Ehhh.. when my dad and I went out west last year we rented a bran new 05 LeSabre with the 4T65-E. My dad manually downshifted down every mountian. We went up 6 mountians above 11,000 feet with that car. It ran better than ever afterwards when we got back. It prolly did cause unseen damage though.
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