Black 98 Olds 88 LSS, 79k, $4500. Should I buy!?!? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-29-2004, 01:02 AM   #11
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I got my 94 olds 88 n/a in november($1200 - 102K), now 3,000 miles later no problems except I had to get the oil changed and decided to replace the belt.

The quality of this body style (same as the one above) is quite good for any GM car. It feels like it is a much smaller or midsize car as far as handling goes.
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:05 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
I got my 94 olds 88 n/a in november($1200 - 102K), now 3,000 miles later no problems except I had to get the oil changed and decided to replace the belt.

The quality of this body style (same as the one above) is quite good for any GM car. It feels like it is a much smaller or midsize car as far as handling goes.
They are extremely reliable cars from what i have found. Before my sister got her '93 she had a '92 that had 193k on it when we sold it (parents bought it in summer of '92 with ~10k on it), it ran like brand new still and still shifted smoothly and handled well and everything, we just got the '93 with half the miles for basically the same as what we got out of the '92, so we got rid of it. It should be a very reliable car.

Shawn
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:46 PM   #13
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I bought my old 93' 88 when it had 96,000 mi. on it in 03'. It now has 120,000 and has had virtually no problems. I am a nasty driver. I thought for sure my tranny would go out but no, its even smoother. My dad owns the car now. As far as my LSS goes it was abused by its previous owner. Being a fleet car for a company in Manhatten kinda explaines why. I drive it like a bat atta h*** and still manage 19mpg. Even for the lofty 6 grand I paid for it and impending paint job I don't regret it. I'll be going to Rock Falls, WI to see what it runs stock. I'm hoping for a 14.9.
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Old 12-29-2004, 05:34 PM   #14
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$4500 for basically an Olds SSEi? If you can afford it, I'd say go for it!! I, too, have a soft spot for those cars. The tail-lights are the only things I don't like on 'em.
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Old 12-29-2004, 07:08 PM   #15
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I'd personally contact the high bidder and ask why they backed out. If they went to pick it up, and then, by accident, found something was wrong that otherwise wouldn't be noticed right off the bat.
If you have one or access to one, I'd suggest scanning it before you hand the cash over, and on that note, deposit the money in a checking account and write a check or get a cashiers check from the bank as a reciept.
Otherwise, yeah, that is a kick-bu++ price for a 1998 L67 car with only 79k on it. Heck, around MN right now all I can find with a Series II L67 priced under $5k is a 1997 SSEi (looks identical to my old 1999) with 165k on it and they want $4500 firm.
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Old 12-29-2004, 08:58 PM   #16
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Get someone to run the VIN the check to see if it'* been in an accident, flood or totalled.

Tsunami damage. :o
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:00 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Get someone to run the VIN the check to see if it'* been in an accident, flood or totalled.

Tsunami damage. :o
True, True, True!!!
I'm sure you will have no trouble finding someone on ClubGP or here with a Carfax account who will run the VIN for you.
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:27 PM   #18
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It will be a better college car then the GP, and you may even consider going to one car during school.
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Old 12-30-2004, 05:27 PM   #19
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It would be nice to go to one car, but I have so much time and money into the GP that I'm not selling it anytime soon. I'm sure I'll have that car for a while. What will happen is the GP will be at home, and I will be driving the LSS at College. The GP won't really cost much for me to have. Yeah, if I sell it I can probably get $2k out of it, but thats it. (and I have over $5k into it) I can keep it insured and registered and all that for like $30 a month. And if I rarely drive it, then repair bills can't really be very big. And, if something breaks, I have something else to drive until I find the money to fix it. That way I can play with the GP on breaks and during the summer (a.k.a. racing season). I'm going to run a carfax on it and I'm going to try to look at the car in person and test drive it before buying it.

Shawn
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:59 AM   #20
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Contacted the seller. I told him I needed a few days to get the money (which I do) and that I'm interested in the car, and assuming I can get the money I would like to come test drive it and possibly buy it, but I don't want to buy it on ebay due to not wanting to be obligated to buy it if I can't get the money (and if I find out its a POS, but I didn't tell him that). Assuming I do go look at it and test drive it, I'll be taking my friend Mr. Autotap with me to check on a few things. (mileage consistancy between PCM and dash, and a few other parameters) Also, I'll run a carfax on it, and take a look at the car closely. I have worked in a detail shop since I was 14 and I've learned how to tell when a car has been fixed from a wreck, so if its been in a wreck, I will mostlikely notice it. If I don't notice it, then I could care less, because its not obvious its been in a wreck, and theres probably not going to be any frame damage. If it has flood damage or something, I don't care as long as I can't tell. But I wouldn't think someone would store a car that had flood damage in the winter, seems kinda pointless doesn't it? He has mentioned nothing about a salvage title, so I'm highly doubting it has one.

Exact quote from him on why the original buyer backed out:
Quote:
The winner of the Olds LSS cant purchase it because she is unexpectedly having to move out of her house by next month.
We'll see how this one turns out. Anyone want a '90 Cutlass Calais 442, with a 2.3L Quad 4 H.O. (180hp/165ft.lbs), and a Getrag 282 5 speed? $500 firm.

Shawn
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