Yes, it'* on the passenger rear side of the diff. shaft. It should be two letters and two more letters with a number. The first letter combo is the ratio, and the other letter/number combination is the month and date. I have the list of rears, so if you find the code I can tell you which it is, but basically a higher gear (3.42+) looks like it would be a T code. Can't seem to find the HP rating for the 2 barrel.

Checked out the car today. Is the code on the axle tube going to be on a metal tag or stamped into the axle? Couldn't find any code. Still like the car so no big deal. If I buy it however, I'd like to be able to figure out what it'* got.

Thanks.

Yes, from what I've seen it'* stamped. I can't find mine either, but that'* because it has so much undercoating on it. I think a 2.56 or 3.08 (I estimated mine has this) seem to be pretty common on the Cutlass.

Bought the Cutlass last night! Picking it up Tuesday or Wednesday hopefully. 51K original miles. Needs paint but a very soid body since it was a CA car for it'* first 43K miles. I'm looking forward to restoring it. Just some minor rust behind the front wheels on the lower fenders. Pretty common area. They make patch panels for these areas that are super cheap.

Grimm, I just noticed we both have / have had 1968 and 1996 Cutlass'*. I sold my '96 last year and got the Bonneville. Great car that performed better than I would expect.

Haha, awesome score! If you don't mind me asking, what was the price? Looks like a very solid car for a pretty easy resto. Too bad your Bonnie isn't a 2003 or we would be like twins. My Cutlass (the '96) will be for sale soon as well.

As I said, check out those Olds sites, they are great resources. Besides Year One, Fusicks is a good place for Olds' parts. OPG is decent from what I'm told, and stay away from Brothers. There are some great engine builders on realoldspower if you plan to build up the engine.

I paid $4,000 for the car. Found it on eBay and drove 200 miles twice to see it. The owner was hoping the auction would go for more so I think I did okay. Seems reasonable to me for the miles and the condition. I figured I should ****** an old "muscle" car up before the market really gets out of control--not that it already hasn't! It'* got a rebuilt trans./rebuilt heads with hardened valve seats//brakes/master cylinder/tires/power booster/radiator/dual exhaust and the list goes on. Mechanically, it'* very sound and that'* the main reason I bought it. Cosmetics can always come later! Plus, I liked the fact that a "little ole' lady" from California was the original owner for 43K miles. I'm not sure if she was from Pasadena or not. He'* got a spread-bore manifold and carb w/ valley gasket he'* willing to sell me for $100 and a Pertronix electronic ignition kit as well for another $100. Not sure if I'll buy those or not at this point.

Is that a Cutlass *? Looks a lot like the one I had when I first joined the Army. Mine had the swivel seats and everything.

Didn't realize what a pretty car I had at the time...

Yep, Cutlass "*" Holiday Coupe (No B-pillar).

Sweeeet!! Mine was a few years newer (early 70'*), but that was a fun car to drive. Not as pretty as yours, but I miss "The Beast" (that'* what my Army buddies called her)

Yes that is an "*". The Supreme had the trim running all along the base of the car. Usually the * has trim on the wheel wells.

You got a very good price on this car for that low miles. You can drive it as is and not be embarrassed at all, so $4K is great. My neighbor friend has a '69 Pontiac Custom * (Tempest) that he listed for $8700 and is very much the same shape as your car. It has presentable paint from 20 feet, and decent interior with some rips, and very little rust. The only difference is he had the engine rebuilt a couple years ago.

He also put the Pertonix in his this spring and he said it made a huge difference in how well the car starts as well as the throttle response.