3100 LIM gaskets, anyone done them? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-16-2006, 02:10 AM   #11
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Removal:

1. Relieve fuel pressure.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable.

3. Remove plenum, fuel rail and injectors. When disconnecting fuel line fittings, be prepared to catch fuel with a rag and cap fittings to prevent contamination.

4. Remove serpentine belt and drain cooling system.

5. Remove alternator and loosen the bracket.

6. Unbolt the power steering pump and set it aside without disconnecting the lines.

7. Disconnect coolant tubes/hoses as necessary.

8. Label and disconnect any remaining fuel and vacuum lines,

9. Remove rocker arm covers/valve covers.

10. Remove the manifold mounting bolts and separate the manifold from the engine. Don't pry between the manifold and heads, as damage to the soft aluminum gasket sealing surfaces may result. If installing a new manifold, transfer all fittings and sensors to the new manifold.

11. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, rotate the rocker arms out of the way and remove the pushrods that go through the manifold gasket.

Installation:

Note: The mating surfaces of the cylinder heads, block and manifold must be perfectly clean when the manifold is installed. Gasket removal solvents in aerosol cans are available at most auto parts stores and may be helpful when removing old gasket material thats stuck to the heads and manifold (since the manifold is made of aluminum, agressive scraping can cause damage). Be sure to follow the directions printed on the container.

12. Lift the old gasket off. Use a gasket scraper to remove all traces of sealant and old gasket material, then clean the mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. If there'* old sealant or oil on the mating surfaces when the manifold is installed, oil or vacuum leaks may develop. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove any gasket material that falls into the intake ports or into the lifter valley.

13. Use a tap of the correct size to chase the threads in the bolt holes, if necessary, then use compressed air (if available) to remove the debris from the holes. WARNING: Wear safety glasses or a face shield to protect your eyes when using compressed air!

14. Apply a 3/16-inch (5 mm) bead of RTV sealant or equivalent to the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads.

15. Install the intake manifold gasket.

16. Install the pushrods and rocker arms

17. Carefully lower the manifold into place and install the mounting bolts nuts finger tight.

18. Tighten the mounting bolts/nuts in three steps, working from the center out, in a criss cross pattern, until they're all at 115 in-lbs.

19. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

20. Change the oil and filter and refill the cooling system. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Now that is pretty much word for word out of the Haynes manual. Good luck.
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crzydmnd72
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Ok I've got them from a Haynes manual. I will type them. Just give me a second.
John, a guy like you doesnt have a scanner to just send them on ?
Well...truth is, I can't find my scanner I will try to find it. But that should be good enough for now.
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjcollier07
Removal:
11. Loosen the rocker arm nuts, rotate the rocker arms out of the way and remove the pushrods that go through the manifold gasket.
wow, thanks! That step 11 is the only one that has me worried. Do rocker arms just unbolt like that??
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:32 AM   #14
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I'm not sure, but I don't think a Hanes manual would lead you wrong. I found my scanner, would you like me to scan the pages on just so you have a little bit more peace of mind?
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:57 AM   #15
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here yah go, my scanner had something really heavy on top of it and now its acting kinda weird so its not the clearest scan its ever done...so heres the best i could do, I can always dig out my other scanner if i need to.

Name:  SAVE0005.jpg
Views: 2
Size:  364.3 KB
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Old 12-16-2006, 02:42 PM   #16
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CC, Keep in mind that the Pushrods will be diffrent lengths for the Intake and Exahust side IIRC.... So keep them in order at the very least...

Be very careful with the rocker arm bolts as I have seen the bosses/Helicoils get striped out in th head... I forget weather they were bosses or simply used a helicoil...

There is work involved in this but its not Hella bad... worse than a 3800, yes...

At this point I don't think there is an upgraded gasket kit for the 3100/3400 engines, but I weill tell you to check with the dealership... If they do not have an upgraded set then the Fel _ Pros may be the way to go for you...

While you are doing these gaskets, and the kit will hopefully include the oil Pump drive shaft O Ring, you will want to make sure you replace that as this is usually the cause of oil leaks with these engines...

Let us know if there is anything else you need to know

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Old 12-16-2006, 03:20 PM   #17
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I appreciate all the info.

I do know you have to keep the pushrods in order. Yes they are different lengths.

oil pump drive shaft ring...where does that leak the oil to?? the GA is losing oil fairly fast, I dont remember where but I am curious as to where that o-ring lets it leak.

the more info the better
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Old 12-16-2006, 03:48 PM   #18
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I can't get a picture, But if you look under the throttlebody, yes between all of those lines( coolant ) you will see a little plug on top of the Block...

I'll explain a little better... A long time ago when GM kicked the HEI distributor to the curb for the GM FWD cars and went to the DIS... There no real changes to the engines design... The distributor dissappeared, but they had to retain the oil pump drive shaft, so hence the little plug on the top of the block... This plug will have the little retainer just like the old distributor had that keeps the plug/oil pump drive shaft in place... Once you remove the plug( may take some force to pull it out ) you'll notice that the O-Ring will either have breaks in it and or be as hard as a rock.... This is a very common oil leak on the 60* V6 chevy engines... This ranges from the 2.8,3.1, 3100 M, 3100 J, 3400 E ... I am half tempted to say the 3500 may have this as well... The 3900 is supposed to be a redesign..

I am going to hazzard a guess and say that the GA has a good bit more for miles on it than does the buick... The GA should have had green coolant from the factory... Keep it that way...

The Buick will have Dex... If anything when you get the work done flush it and use some prestone longlife or the like...

These gaskets were the major downfall of these engines... Most last a He** of a long time as long as this issue is caught in time.. Althought I am not a huge fan of the 60* I have totall respect for them as they are known to last as long as any of our 3800'*...

I have rambled a bit much, But I hope that will give you an idea of location, as well as what the oil leak will most likely be...

If you have any more questions... We are here for ya

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Old 12-16-2006, 04:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I am going to hazzard a guess and say that the GA has a good bit more for miles on it than does the buick... The GA should have had green coolant from the factory... Keep it that way...

The Buick will have Dex... If anything when you get the work done flush it and use some prestone longlife or the like...

These gaskets were the major downfall of these engines... Most last a He** of a long time as long as this issue is caught in time.. Althought I am not a huge fan of the 60* I have totall respect for them as they are known to last as long as any of our 3800'*...

I have rambled a bit much, But I hope that will give you an idea of location, as well as what the oil leak will most likely be...

If you have any more questions... We are here for ya
I appreciate your response. I do have a pretty good idea on where the plug is. I'll have to convey that to my friend and have him look there.

You guess about miles was a little off The 95 grand am only has about 5k less than the 00 Buick. Both being around 70k.

Yes the GA has the green stuff and will stay that way. I didn't get a chance to flush my moms coolant when I was home last but it is on the list of **** to do when I get home for x-mas.

I like how you call your info rambling...probably some of the most informative rambling that I have ever heard

I'll ask more as I get questions
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Old 12-16-2006, 06:45 PM   #20
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Just a couple of things. Use a good quality tungsten carbide scraper to clean the sealing surfaces for the gaskets. Don't worry about discolorations as long as the surface is flat. Do NOT use a drill or an air tool with 3M or anyone else'* abrasive gasket removers, that includes rubber bristle brushes that are embedded with abrasive, rolocs with gasket removing discs, etc. These make the parts look great, but they can actually damage the sealing surface by creating low spots. Worse, abrasive particles get into the oiling system where they cause premature bearing failure in a matter of months.

The second thing is that to chase the threads you should purchase a thread chaser of the right diameter and pitch instead of a tap. Some thread profiles in the engine can be damaged using a regular tap.

Alright, three things. I like to use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker on the LIM bolts to make sure they don't vibrate loose.

Last, if you don't have compressed air, you can fill a portable tank and carry it to the job to blow out the bolt holes.
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