Good evening. I recently had my lifters changed out and wasn't learned enough at the time to request a D.O.D delete among other things on my 2013 Yukon XL 5.3. Long story short, new lifters did fix my problem with misfiring and fouling out spark plugs, but it didn't fix another long-standing issue I've had where the oil pressure will drop below 20 down to about 15 at idle after a few minutes of driving and warming up. I've read every thread on the internet about it, and I know every suggestion, ranging from oil pump, oil o-ring replacement, and oil sending unit/filter screen. Also seen all the YouTube videos on doing flushes. Honestly, I'm done dumping money into an engine with over 200k miles on it just to maybe get another 20. So I'm starting to research buying a new/reman engine with a dod delete already and have run across a few threads recommending websites that no longer exist. So my question is, where are people these days going to buy reasonably priced GM remanufactured engines from reputable builders with a decent warranty. I'm not looking to spend an arm and a leg, nor do I need all kinds of power upgrades. I just need something that will hopefully get me another 200k out of my truck. My plan is to wait until this one dies and have a game plan for a new engine within the next year. Any recommendations will be helpful.

These engines are pretty stout. It sounds like you've already fixed the common issue that they have. Why put thousands into a rebuilt engine when the only thing wrong with this one is low oil pressure? My suggestions:

1. Find out what the oil pressure really is with a real oil pressure gauge, not the one on the dash.
2. If it is actually low, install a high flow oil pump.

In my book, 15 is low but not the end of the world. Above 20 is okay. Would prefer more but that will work.

If you really must replace the engine, Jasper Engines has a good reputation from what I can tell.

Thanks. Jasper is who a mechanic friend of mine also suggested, but I didn't see prices on their website. Looks like you have to buy through an installer or a shop?

As for the reasoning, my fear is that at this engine'* age/mileage, it is likely that the rod bearings are either wearing or will start to wear soon, to the point that dumping more money into it is only a temporary bandaid.

You can get a price directly from them. I think most of their business is from shops, but I've heard of many folks that buy them personally and do their own work.

It'* an LS. If you solve the pressure issue now, it will likely last quite a while. Then you can take most of the thousands you'd spend on an engine and save it for a downpayment on the next car when the transmission fails on yours well before 400,000 miles.