Wheel Hop/Studder/Chirp When Turning Both Directions Sharp On My Denali
#1
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Wheel Hop/Studder/Chirp When Turning Both Directions Sharp On My Denali
Hello, I'm new to these forums and threads so go easy on me. I don't even know if I am posting this in the most correct area.
Anyways, on to describing my problem to see what I can get out of it.
I have a 2000 Yukon Denali, 5.7 Liter, Electronic 4X4, 305/40R22 Tires on chrome rims. I have recently (last weekend) replaced my upper and lower ball joints, pitman arm, and checked over my CV joints, tie rod ends, etc.
I have been having a problem with my entire truck bouncing from side to side, wheels chirping, and hopping when pulling into parkings spaces or even while turning down curvey side roads. It sounds terrible both from outside and inside the vehicle.
My truck has always done it since I've owned it (for about two years). Although it seems to have been getting MUCH worse within the last year. I have recenlty tightened my torsion keys and lifted the front of my vehicle about 3/4 of an inch (to stop my tires from rubbing the inside of the fenders when going over train tracks, speed bumps, etc). It'* great not to have my tires rub on anything any more. However I think that it made the wheel hop/studder even worse then it was before.
I ended up getting an alignment done (as you should obviously do after messing with the torsion keys) hoping that would fix the problem. As I pulled away from the shop I quickly noticed that wasn`t the case
So now that I have pretty much wrote a book on my problem. My question would be, what the hell else could it be. It seems like I am running out of options.
I know the vehicle is not stuck in four wheel drive (although it does feel similar to driving in four wheel drive on dry pavement). After putting the vehicle up on the hoist and putting it in gear. I can see the four wheel drive is all working correctly.
ANY HELP would be great. It kills me every time I have to park my truck or turn it sharp. Feeling all the pressure that is being put on all my new front end parts.
Thank you everyone.
Anyways, on to describing my problem to see what I can get out of it.
I have a 2000 Yukon Denali, 5.7 Liter, Electronic 4X4, 305/40R22 Tires on chrome rims. I have recently (last weekend) replaced my upper and lower ball joints, pitman arm, and checked over my CV joints, tie rod ends, etc.
I have been having a problem with my entire truck bouncing from side to side, wheels chirping, and hopping when pulling into parkings spaces or even while turning down curvey side roads. It sounds terrible both from outside and inside the vehicle.
My truck has always done it since I've owned it (for about two years). Although it seems to have been getting MUCH worse within the last year. I have recenlty tightened my torsion keys and lifted the front of my vehicle about 3/4 of an inch (to stop my tires from rubbing the inside of the fenders when going over train tracks, speed bumps, etc). It'* great not to have my tires rub on anything any more. However I think that it made the wheel hop/studder even worse then it was before.
I ended up getting an alignment done (as you should obviously do after messing with the torsion keys) hoping that would fix the problem. As I pulled away from the shop I quickly noticed that wasn`t the case
So now that I have pretty much wrote a book on my problem. My question would be, what the hell else could it be. It seems like I am running out of options.
I know the vehicle is not stuck in four wheel drive (although it does feel similar to driving in four wheel drive on dry pavement). After putting the vehicle up on the hoist and putting it in gear. I can see the four wheel drive is all working correctly.
ANY HELP would be great. It kills me every time I have to park my truck or turn it sharp. Feeling all the pressure that is being put on all my new front end parts.
Thank you everyone.
#3
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
zigzag_03: I agree with sawgunner..try checking any fuses for the 4x4, and possibly the 4x4 control module, as well as all wiring, especially at the selector.
#4
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Hmmm....I don`t think that`* the case (it being stuck in 4X4).
I raised the vehicle up on a hoist in my shop and actually started the vehicle turning the 4X4 on and off and all 4 wheels were rotating when 4X4 was engaged and only the back were rotating when 4X4 was dis-engaged (as it should).
I raised the vehicle up on a hoist in my shop and actually started the vehicle turning the 4X4 on and off and all 4 wheels were rotating when 4X4 was engaged and only the back were rotating when 4X4 was dis-engaged (as it should).
#6
Retired Administrator
True Car Nut
You need to update your driveline fluids. Especially if you have automatic AWD. After you update the fluids you can see what problems you may or may not have. The fluids are the main causeof this problem, and left unchanged often result in major driveline repairs.
In order of importance:
update to the new blue transfer case fluid, only sold at a GM dealer (GM recommends doing this twice, a second time after 500 miles are driven)
front transaxle fluid to either the GM fluid or its synthetic counterpart
Update aTF fluid to DEXRON VI
GM has had problems with the parking chatter for years, and the update fluids were engineered to address the issue. The problem may not be as bad or as costly as you think. And, you will get you preventative maintenance done as a additional benefit.
In order of importance:
update to the new blue transfer case fluid, only sold at a GM dealer (GM recommends doing this twice, a second time after 500 miles are driven)
front transaxle fluid to either the GM fluid or its synthetic counterpart
Update aTF fluid to DEXRON VI
GM has had problems with the parking chatter for years, and the update fluids were engineered to address the issue. The problem may not be as bad or as costly as you think. And, you will get you preventative maintenance done as a additional benefit.
#7
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Another issue that you might have is a locking diff. In most years this was noted by the RPO code G80. In my 00 Silverado I'll occasionally have the rear diff lock (when needed) and then sometimes it doesn't unlock.
I'm not saying to do it, but if I power it up to tear them free or kick the back out for a second, that usually unlocks it. I'm also wayyyy past due to do the fluids in my axles/diffs .
I'm not saying to do it, but if I power it up to tear them free or kick the back out for a second, that usually unlocks it. I'm also wayyyy past due to do the fluids in my axles/diffs .
#8
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Sounds like the locking diff is stuck locked. Put it on the lift and try to turn the front tires by hand. It should free wheel. If the other tire turns, it'* locked on.
#9
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
tyipcal diff should spin a wheel in the opposite direction. Unless the transfer case isn't engaged and the front driveshaft turns instead of the wheel.
On a rear axle, the wheel should turn the opposite way when turned by hand on a lift.
On a rear axle, the wheel should turn the opposite way when turned by hand on a lift.