Good thing I took a pic the other day when I installed it. The black adapter replaces the offset factory oil filter adapter. Here it is installed...




The 2 screws hold the adapter just like the old factory one does. Now, you screw this adapter...


Onto the black one. Then connect your lines.

Engine is like 99% back together. Besides hooking up the exhaust and making room/installing e-fans this thing is done. Oh, and I still need to do some persuasion to the oil pan.

I guess it is possible to use the V-6 software but it doesn't seem to want to idle correctly with it.

If I use the V8 software from the Express, the truck is a little hard to start(have to crack throttle a tad) to get it running and then it will idle fine.

Only codes I have coming up is P1645 and P1345.
The P1345 is the Crank/cam timing code. Basically, the dizzy is either 1 tooth off in either direction. I need more guidance on that one.

The P1645 I don't understand. According to HPTuners, it deals with the EVAP solenoid valve at the back of the truck. According to Alldata, it deals with the fuel gauge. And, according to Alldata, the PCM controls it via the same pin on both platforms and the solenoid is powered via the fuse/relay block underhood. My fuel gauge is working fine from the looks of it. AND, if I run the V6 software, I don't get the P1645. 1645 doesn't set a light, and if need be, I'll (cough) turn that code off.

If anyone needs schematics/video/pics, just shout.

to fix 1345 set cam retard to zero plus or minus 2 at like 1 or 2k rpm. this is your timing you just adjust by turning the dist. 1645, sorry no idea.

you fix the codes yet?

Funny you ask. Today is the first day of my 7 day vacation. MUCH needs to be done. I fiddled with the software today. Not much done, I tried to do a CASE re-learn, but still getting that same 1345 code. Guess I need to move the dizzy a tooth or more....

Off to the junkyard tomorrow to get e-fans and 4 O2 sensors. Going to take this to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust done. I don't have the skill or patience to do my own, even though I do have a welder, I suck at it.

On another note. I took her for a short spin around the yard to ANNOY my neighbors with open headers and I did a quick romp on her just to spit friggin grass everywhere. WHICH I FRIGGIN LOVED!!!!!!!!!! OMG!!! I can't wait to get her on the streets.

its not case. its cam retard offset, look for something in hpt like CMP or cam retard. you rev the truck up and turn the dist till its set at zero and tighten it down then recheck. right now to get that code your timing is 20deg or more off so i wouldn't be beating on it.

i cant find the cam offset pid

Ok, I found the PID and got it going, but it constantly says 0.0* ???

And I think I found another issue. I had my dizzy out and noticed that the tie down will not move freely around the dizzy housing. It sits in a square recessed part of the housing. ???My 4.3 dizzy is the same way.

On another note. I got my efans in today. Lost my A/C in the process. I'll post pics tomorrow. I'm tired and sick from something.

i dont think i would believe that reading unless you could turn the dist and watch it got out then set it back. to get 1345 your cam retard has to be more than 20. the hold down shouldnt be like your 4.3 i havent seen one but ive heard they are not adjustable. the sbc (i know for sure mine) doesnt have the thing on the 6 that locks it in place. my truck you could move quite a distance either way only thing stopping it was the wires hitting the firewall

I just looked at pictures of new dizzy'* on Autozone and Advance and the 2002 models are all locking just like mine is. I do have a spare locking tab. I wonder if I cut off the eye hole and leave just enough for the lock to sit under the bolt head and still be able to turn the dizzy.