Lol, I'll try to answer all those.
It only vibrates when braking.
4 inch lift with 315/75 r16 tires
Front hubs have about 10,000 miles on them.
Only drive it about ten miles a day.
Mostly road use, but last weekend I got it pretty muddy.

Oh and it'* at 150,000 miles right now.

Does it ever tow or carry lots of weight?

How old are the tires?

How worn out are the tires?

Have the wheels been balanced recently?

Have the wheels been rotated recently?

Where does this vehicle live?

What manufacturer of tires (Goodyear, Remington, Falken, Bridgestone, Sunny, etc.) ?

Have you verified that mud/ice/etc. isn't built up on the inside (the side facing towards the axle) of the rim?

Was this vibration present immediately after the new rotors and pads were installed?

If not, when did you first notice it?

Did they give any other information such as how worn the brake pads are etc.?

It doesn't carry a lot of weight.
I got the tires a month ago. General Grabber AT2.
It lives in California.
No build up of anything on the rims or anywhere else.
No vibration after I installed the pads and rotors.
I first noticed it driving a steep, winding mountain road after the brakes warmed up. I would say the brakes were about 3 years old at that point.
They didn't say anything about the wear on the pads. I can see for myself though that there is a lot of paid left. About 75% left.
They only mentioned worn out ball joints so that'* why I did upper and lower control arms and all the tie rod parts.
Tomorrow I'm going to pull all the wheels and do a very thorough inspection of the brakes. Even check torque specs on everything. If it all looks good I'll try new rotors.

So did most of my cars. Curious what part . . . ?

Good to know for "later".

Okay so at least here we've established a known-good point in time with this configuration.

Ah, definitely rotors.

. . . and "later" is here: this issue has transcended a set of tires, likely ruling tires out as the problem.

Okay. Good to know from what you've seen. Too bad they didn't tell you during their inspection. Another reason to not rely on them.

Seems like a good way to go.

One other thing: Make sure the wheel lugs are final-tightened with a torque wrench to the right specification. Once I figured that out most of my warped-rotor issues went away. Especially on my GM cars that always seem to have undersized front rotors.

Doing it by feel, or the "technicians" at [name your favorite tire shop that doesn't test-drive to diagnose a driving issue] doing it by feel is not accurate. I like to watch them do their NASCAR impressions putting them on though.

A lot of shops rely on "torque sticks", essentially calibrated spring-loaded extensions between the air impact and the socket. If the air pressure and air impact are calibrated correctly and the "technicians" are trained in correct usage it can be fairly accurate. The problem is they are often implemented as a time-saving device, nobody is trained, and air pressure and air impacts are never calibrated nor inspected over time. This leads to the same inaccurate lug torque, under the comfortable blanket of "the box says X pound-feet of torque with the magic stick so we're good". With car owners none the wiser.

Now I final-torque all of my stuff with a torque wrench at home, and I've found a chain of tire stores that keeps a platoon of torque wrenches assigned to both sides of each stall at every store and they final-torque everything with a torque wrench.

I've had good luck with Napa'* Polymer-coated Ultra Premium rotors for what it'* worth. Even with lug torque done correctly my Yukon would warp rear rotors every 20,000 miles or so. Switched to these and problem solved . . . and it appears they don't rust also.

Rotors, mine lasted 7,000 miles. Thanks China

Drive truck, pull parking brake handle out, apply parking brake ONLY to slow down. This will at least narrow down which end of truck to focus on.

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