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Old 02-19-2011, 12:19 PM   #41
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The oil level sensor is easy.. it'* on the front o the pan and there'* nothing in the way on the W body.

Go find a GP.. that'* where I find the hangers... BTW bring a 13mm bolt turnin tool.
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:51 PM   #42
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There'* a lady next door to me that owns a gp gt, does that count? Lol
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Old 02-21-2011, 01:28 AM   #43
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Made an order on rockauto today. Ordered both fog lights, replacement lift supports for the rear trunk lid since they were shot, a new cabin air filter, an oil level sensor, and 4 oil filters.

For the filters, I went with the PF52 equivalent (1.75x longer) Wix filters. Larger filter means more flow. More flow means the filter doesn't get clogged as quickly, and that means that the bypass valve isn't opened as easily under high RPM driving, which means better overall filtration.
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Old 02-21-2011, 08:33 AM   #44
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Good choice on oil filters, providing your lower engine mount is still good they will treat you well as those are the same that I use.
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:28 AM   #45
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There'* a few different versions of the pf52. Some longer than others. Hopefully your'* fits.

BTW..you should be doing frequent enough oil changes that the filter isn't getting clogged, partially clogged etc. If that'* the case you are sludging the hell out of your engine.

I bounced a fog light off an Audi on Saturday. Not sure how I did that..lol
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Old 02-21-2011, 11:46 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37 View Post
There'* a few different versions of the pf52. Some longer than others. Hopefully your'* fits.

BTW..you should be doing frequent enough oil changes that the filter isn't getting clogged, partially clogged etc. If that'* the case you are sludging the hell out of your engine.

I bounced a fog light off an Audi on Saturday. Not sure how I did that..lol
Well, I'm hoping it will fit. They fit my 95 L67 Regal perfectly well and also fit the GTP I worked on last year, so I should be alright.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:19 PM   #47
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Hey, quick question. My driver side balljoint is out. Would it be a better idea to replace the balljoint, or the control arm? Didn't you mention that you could get the control arms pretty cheap with the balljoint already included?

Is it difficult to replace just the balljoint if I decide to do that instead? I've replaced balljoints before, but I don't know if I need to go crazy measures with a drill and a chisel if they're riveted from the factory.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:00 AM   #48
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Anything over 75-90K, I'd replace the control arms. Both.. It'll be a nice handling update on the bushings and get the balljoint out of the way too.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:55 AM   #49
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I'm not sure how good they are but rock auto has some made by dorman and they are only $52.79 before a discount so they are pretty cheap. kind of outweighs the price of buying the ball joint and all the bushings separately.
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Old 02-28-2011, 09:53 AM   #50
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Dat'* what I'm saying.
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