Two weeks ago i boght new battery. Last night i had problems with it again. It was kinda loosing power and kicking back on. The car was almost going to turn down and then came back on. This morning tried to start it no way. I tried to jump it i didnt work again. Is it my starter dead or i am having problems with something else. If it is starter how much is it. Is it hard to change it.

Sounds like something might be draining the system...

Scrub and clean the battery wire connectors with a wire brush. Also scrub in-between the red connectors so that all of the metal surfaces are clean and corrosion-free. Even though the battery is new I would scrub that too.

Are you experiencing what seems like a weak battery or a loose connection?

Forget the starter; it'* probably fine. The battery is _probably_ also fine as well; jump-starting is always difficult with side-terminal batteries because you really can't transfer high-amperage juice through that dinky little contact patch on the terminals: you have to recharge the dead battery at a lower rate, so that the on-board battery can start the car, not the booster battery connected only by jumper cables.

So what I'm getting at here is that I think your alternator has quit, and nothing is recharging your new battery, at least not at the proper rate. (It also wouldn't hurt to have your battery cables cleaned at _both_ ends of all cables.) You've probably been driving your car more-or-less on battery power since you bought the new battery, and finally it'* pooped out.

Have someone either do a charging system test on the car, or just pull the alternator and have it bench-tested for output. Either way I think you're going to find that the alternator is toast. Bonnevilles like to eat theirs, mine is on #4 in ten years, and I think yours has died, too.

That is what i thought so too. But my father was like no it is starter. So how big is our factory alternator 104Amp. I got the system in my car and two amlifiers. So would it hurt the car if i got bigger alternator, like 130amp or something.

Dont just look at the connections at the battery. It could be the other ends also! These become coroded too. Dont forget to get your ground wire - if it is coroded or warn, you could have the same problems.

I am assuming your new battery is OK (new) - you should check the voltage...regardless of what the volt meter (if you have one) or if the car starts or not. That will tell you if it is the battery. If you have good voltage, you know your problem is elsewhere.

If the battery is low - you could have a defective battery - or your charging system is suspect. Other things it could be is a drain on the battery while the key is off. Do you have anything hooked directly to the battery that is not factory? Have you added any lights, stereo, boosters, etc? Those could be causing problems...even if the switch is off.

Lots to look at - but you have to go through a systematical check of the systems to isolate the problem.

Good luck!

i just changed my alternator and wow it was soooo easy but what would happen if he put a 130 amp alt would he also have to upgrade his voltage regualtor?

If you're running a big system, a larger alternator would probably be a good idea. I can tell you from personal experience, that it doesn't take many extra toys to over-tax an alternator. I'm running a 140 amp alt now.

Big thank you to all of you who spent time to post reply to my topic. I just fixed my problem. When i changed the battery last time i forgot to put the little piece of metal between two red terminals. That was it. I dont know how it did work before, but when i put it back in it started first try. I am happy now. So the bigger alternator would help me if i am runny 2 amps cd, neons, cd player. etc.

The voltage regulator is built into the alternator; it'* part of it. You may be thinking of older GM models (circa '71 and earlier) which had their regulators on the firewall...