Well here is a Thread I never wanted to Post. now with a vid
11-19-2006, 12:13 PM
#21
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I'm also sorry to hear Peter, you can ignore a previous post asking what'* wrong with your motor now. If there'* anything I can do to help let me know.
Frank
Frank
11-19-2006, 12:18 PM
#22
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hate when they dont torque the connecting rods correctly when they rebuild.
same thing happened to me at 30,000 miles after a GM goodwrench drop in (454/7.4l) in my old truck.
at least its not the trans that went out, the motor should be MUCH easier to drop in.
same thing happened to me at 30,000 miles after a GM goodwrench drop in (454/7.4l) in my old truck.
at least its not the trans that went out, the motor should be MUCH easier to drop in.
11-19-2006, 01:35 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
You can't trust anyone when rebuilding a trans/motor can you? :? I hope I never have problems.
When you install the crank, after you lube the bearings with assembly lube, being careful not to touch the face of the bearings.... Insert the bearings into the block main journals... And the Main caps.... After lubing the bearings you can set the crank in place.... Then take the lubed main caps/bearings and install them in their proper place.... Torque in steps and sequence per the service manual, Once you are done, the crank should turn pretty free with no binding in a 360* roatation, nice and smooth... If it doesn't you have an issue...
we have seen a few builders here that created more throuble than they solved...
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11-19-2006, 01:51 PM
#25
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Though I have no experience, if I ever needed an engine rebuild I'd prefer to do it myself with the help of the knowledgable people here. I don't know if I could trust anyone to do it. Especially a trans, but that'* something I wouldn't even try to do.
11-19-2006, 09:48 PM
#30
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Ouch! It didn't look like it affected the valvetrain any(piston to valve damage), otherwise the motor would skip. Yours looked like it was idling smooth(just loud)