Yes I wondered why it didnt come with rubber gaskets to begin with, they would be much better at sealing the imperfections left behind from a DIY driller. I will remember that though when I decide to repair it.

And yes, a hole saw wouldve been a much better option, but I didnt really have access to one at the time, and I probably would have had to go buy the proper size one anyway.

Honestly, as bad as I hate it, right now I think im just going to leave it alone.

The cost of repairing it vs the cost of leaving alone is too vast for me right now, especially since im trying to save my money for other things, and fixing it would almost be a tank of gas easily.

At its current rate, id say it would take at least 2 weeks-month to leak even a quart. Thats an expense I can handle, as opposed to to having to probably buy another kit so i can see which gaskets will fit properly, plus 7.4 qts of ATF, as im sure i couldnt re-use what i got out of there. and even with buying 2 gallon jugs of it thats still close to 20 dollars, unless i buy some Super Tech ATF or something like that.

So as usual, thanks for the replies, and I will keep everything said in mind, and keep a close eye on things as time goes on.

When you redo it, get some form a gasket and some red thread locker. The nylon washers can't stand much compression force over time. They may look OK at installation, but will compress and crack if over torqued. If you can't stand the thought of low compression torquing, see your parts guy (like at NAPA) for copper gaskets that can stand more torque and still seal and function.

Get new gaskets. Drop the pan and clean it up good with degreaser or your favorite cleaner to remove all ATF from the mating surfaces. Apply the form a gasket (RTV suitable for an ATF seal, your parts shop will help you choose) to the inside, outside, and around the body of the part where it passes through the hole. It'* hard to use too much, you can wipe off the excess or trim it off with a knife later. Apply the Red (high strength) threadlocker to the inside retaining nut and tighten securely. This means only tight enough to ensure that all mating surfaces are firmly in contact then maybe up to a half turn more. Set the pan assembly aside and let in cure overnight.

The RTV will eliminate any leaks that could occur if here are any minute gaps or scratches in the assembly. The thread locker will keep the assembly from coming loose unintentionally, in fact, if you use the high strength stuff as recommended you'll need significant effort to get it back apart after it has cured.

Always use a backer wrench when removing/installing the plug to avoid spinning the assembly which could create a leak path.

ah more good advice, ill definetely reference this thread again when i decide to fix it.

and WalterMitty, youre definetely going out on a limb by saying the guys who work at my local O'reilleys know anything...because sometimes thats simply a far cry from the truth.

In fact I dont care for the place at all, but its the only auto parts store in town, and the next one is probably 15-20 miles away, which is quite a drive considering it takes me 20-30 minutes to drive to anything considered an actual town.

Shop here to get an idea of the RTV to ask for:

http://www.accessconnect.com/gasket_maker_.htm

I no longer bother shopping for an RTV for a specific purpose. The Ultra Copper working great if not better in all applications.

If you must have a drain plug in your Transmission pan try this.

Find a drain plug that matches your oil drain plug.
Find a nut that matches the threads on the drain plug.
Take a DieGrinder and turn the nut into a castle nut, grinding a deep slot (arch) in every other face.
Carefully locate and drill a hole in the pan so that the oil drain plug fits without being too loose.
Remove the rubber washer from the drain plug stick it through the hole and thread the nut on.
The side of the nut with the three slots (arches) will now be tight against the inside floor of the pan.
Now hand the pan to a welder, preferably Heli-Arc, and have him weld the nut to the pan at the three flats you did not grind slots in.

Now you will have a low profile transmission drain plug with a built in rubber washer and no leaks.

Now all we need are pictures.

Great idea Ron... now someone should have told the oil pan builders something like that before they got started.

Disclaimer:

I have added drain plugs, as described above, to two of my cars that had Tirbo 400 Transmissions.

I have heard a roomer that GM Transmission pans now are hardened and difficult to weld?

Looks like I need to pick one up at the junkyard and give it a try.

that is a good idea ron, but its not something i can really do as i dont have any of those tools, nor do i have any friends that do.

I firmly believe the setup i have now will work with different gaskets and some RTV, but i havent decided to fix it yet...I probably will when i have 30 bucks laying around with nothing to do with it.