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Old 12-20-2006, 01:21 AM   #11
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Slow edit, see above.
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GonneVille
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan
And I'm not trying to jump all over you here, but how are you running a 2.55 pulley with just a CAI???
The same way I did. I had a 2.5 pulley on my 95, with a 3.5" FWI, and it ran just fine, until other issues killed it.

BTW, I go against the proven wisdom on cross-drilled brakes. I was very happy with mine, when I had them on my 95 SSEi. Of course, I was delivering pizza in a city, so brake fade was a bigger issue for me than for most of these guys, so that does follow.
Basically, the only reason to get X-drilled is if you are doing a lot of heavy, repetitive braking, without allowing time in between for the brakes to cool, to the point that you experience brake fade. The cross-drilling ventilates the rotor better, thereby reducing temps and preventing fade. However, it eliminates some braking surface, so you have to use more pressure to achieve the same stopping power. It also makes your pads wear a lot faster, and the rotor can't be turned, so budget is an issue.

These guys are right about everything they say, I just happen to be the happy exception.
And if you do this, replace (not turn) your xdrilled rotors at LEAST yearly. They do NOT ventilate better. Think about it. The holes are captured on both sides simultaneously by both pads. What'* ventilating?

The idea is more SURFACE area for cooling AFTER the disk travels past the rotors. This increases stress from heat-cycling.

Professionals replace rotors that are crossdrilled after every race because they stress crack and EXPLODE if they don't.

Crossdrilling on street cars is generally known as a ricer trick. There are rare exceptions, but the rule is safety when talking about braking.

Production cars that have holes in the rotors already are CAST into the blanks, not drilled. And the rotor diameter is increased to make up for the loss of braking surface area.
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:31 AM   #13
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Well I dont see myself doing frequent quick stops. So I think that I will pass on the rotors and use the money to buy some go fast parts for one of my cars

Thanks for all the advice everybody,

Erik
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Old 12-20-2006, 01:36 AM   #14
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Bonnevilles are known to be under-braked from the factory. Don't pass.

Go with traditional or slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Stopping is harder when you're faster.
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Old 12-20-2006, 02:40 AM   #15
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Sorry, Will, I didn't explain that very well.
Don't skimp and go cheap on your rear shoes either. Make sure you get premium materials there too.
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:55 AM   #16
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Yup. Good advice. Front rotors warp for 3 reasons:

1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
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Old 12-20-2006, 09:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Yup. Good advice. Front rotors warp for 3 reasons:

1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
lets not forget hub run-out, and improper installation ie: not cleaning mating surface properly
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Old 12-20-2006, 07:04 PM   #18
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I just replaced the rotors this Augest so I dont think that they are bad yet. Unfortunetly I am a poor college student and opted for the elcheapo rotors and pads. I think I will get a decent set of pads on my trip to summit tomorow. Another question that I have is, is there a special tool to do the back shoes on a bonneville?? I have been putting this off becuase somebody once told me that there is a special tool to take the shoes off without damageing them.

Thanks, Erik
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