Stupid Disc Break Question
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Originally Posted by GonneVille
Originally Posted by Logan
And I'm not trying to jump all over you here, but how are you running a 2.55 pulley with just a CAI???
BTW, I go against the proven wisdom on cross-drilled brakes. I was very happy with mine, when I had them on my 95 SSEi. Of course, I was delivering pizza in a city, so brake fade was a bigger issue for me than for most of these guys, so that does follow.
Basically, the only reason to get X-drilled is if you are doing a lot of heavy, repetitive braking, without allowing time in between for the brakes to cool, to the point that you experience brake fade. The cross-drilling ventilates the rotor better, thereby reducing temps and preventing fade. However, it eliminates some braking surface, so you have to use more pressure to achieve the same stopping power. It also makes your pads wear a lot faster, and the rotor can't be turned, so budget is an issue.
These guys are right about everything they say, I just happen to be the happy exception.
The idea is more SURFACE area for cooling AFTER the disk travels past the rotors. This increases stress from heat-cycling.
Professionals replace rotors that are crossdrilled after every race because they stress crack and EXPLODE if they don't.
Crossdrilling on street cars is generally known as a ricer trick. There are rare exceptions, but the rule is safety when talking about braking.
Production cars that have holes in the rotors already are CAST into the blanks, not drilled. And the rotor diameter is increased to make up for the loss of braking surface area.
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From: Campbellville, Ontario (Close to Toronto)
Well I dont see myself doing frequent quick stops. So I think that I will pass on the rotors and use the money to buy some go fast parts for one of my cars 
Thanks for all the advice everybody,
Erik
Thanks for all the advice everybody,
Erik
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Yup. Good advice. Front rotors warp for 3 reasons:
1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
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True Car Nut
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Fitchburg Ma _ToastedRice_
Originally Posted by willwren
Yup. Good advice. Front rotors warp for 3 reasons:
1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
1. Poor quality rotors/pads.
2. Uneven wheel lug torque (see Techinfo).
3. Rear brakes not picking up the load, causing the front to over-work.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 103
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From: Campbellville, Ontario (Close to Toronto)
I just replaced the rotors this Augest so I dont think that they are bad yet. Unfortunetly I am a poor college student and opted for the elcheapo rotors and pads. I think I will get a decent set of pads on my trip to summit tomorow. Another question that I have is, is there a special tool to do the back shoes on a bonneville?? I have been putting this off becuase somebody once told me that there is a special tool to take the shoes off without damageing them.
Thanks, Erik
Thanks, Erik
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