so my bonne' is in the shop again - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-11-2006, 10:18 AM   #1
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Default so my bonne' is in the shop again

>= [

i don't know what it is this time but like, when it'* doing 15-20 and you usually punch it to the carpet, it should go down into first and kick you back in the seat and accellerate.. well, it goes down into first, but it just goes slow.. like a geo metro speed, there'* nothing that slow i could compare it with otherwise.. I should've gotten a vid of it, though

Like when it shifts down, it goes down to first, accelerates to about 34-35 mph, rpm'* are at 5200-5350 on the tach, and when you keep the gas down all the way to the floor, it doesn't shift.. just sits there in first gear until you let off the accelerator pedal about a good 3/4 of the travel up from the floor, then it barely shifts into second..

the car is starting to stall at lights, plus.. the oil pressure gauge used to read 35-45 PSi, at lights, or at a dead stop whether i be in a low gear (1,2,3) or drive, or reverse, the pressure goes dangerously low .. (In my opinion at least) and the 'check gages' icon illuminates on the driver information center.. and the chime ticks off like something is wrong.. ended up getting a new oil pressure switch, that didn't do it, but the pressure keeps going down to 5-15 psi on there, (IN THE RED..) and i'm afraid of what this is doing to the car..that, and my motor is now ticking horribly, and I just had the lower end rebuilt, consisting of a sleeved crankshaft, new rods, and new main bearings.. I'm guessing something is loose down there, or it'* something in the valvetrain somewhere.. Maybe lifters? My suburban did that before i had lifters serviced and replaced, and it was fine thereafter..

My parents are saying 'We should sell this car, it'* a POS and a problem' and i told them all about what i've learned about that specific model year and edition at BC, and they asked if i wanted to keep a problem, and i said well yes, it can be fixed .. anything can be with the proper knowledge

so i don't know what'* up, but i'm extremely depressed about this whole situation.. can anyone help me out with a little insight or an idea as to what this stuff could be?

i couldn't decided whether to put this in 92-99 forum, or here just for a general chat on it.. so i'm sorry if it'* not in the right thing..

i am glad bc has been around this far, and i've learned so much about my car, and i've fixed the minor things that make my car that much nicer/better/more fun to own, and i thank you guys

i'm just hoping you guys can help me figure something out.. i'm about to drop this car off at the pontiac dealer and have them work on it and fix everything at $150/hour.. I'm tired of my mechanic ******* this car up
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:24 AM   #2
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I smelll a new engine...
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:37 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vital49
I smelll a new engine...
I agree, that it sounds like new or rebuilt engine time...........Sorry man.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:43 AM   #4
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Something wasn't done properly etc.

When redoing a bottom end the crank gets sent out to be checked. (I've never heard fo sleeving one) The rod bearings are ordered once the crank is good and things are put together with the new tolerances in mind.

Low oil pressure tyipcally indicates the space between bearings and crank is too large, ticking/soon to be knocking indicated the space is very large and a lower end rebuild or new motor is needed.

My take on it would be that the mechanic needs to eat the cost and fix it properly because it was apparently not done properly. You have legal rights if he tries to dodge the responsibility for performing the work correctly.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Something wasn't done properly etc.

When redoing a bottom end the crank gets sent out to be checked. (I've never heard fo sleeving one) The rod bearings are ordered once the crank is good and things are put together with the new tolerances in mind.

Low oil pressure tyipcally indicates the space between bearings and crank is too large, ticking/soon to be knocking indicated the space is very large and a lower end rebuild or new motor is needed.

My take on it would be that the mechanic needs to eat the cost and fix it properly because it was apparently not done properly. You have legal rights if he tries to dodge the responsibility for performing the work correctly.

This engine was not done correctly... You cannot, let me repeat that, you cannot redo the bottom end of an engine that spun a bearing with out removing the heads to pull the pistons / rod assemblies ... The rods have to be resized as rod and rod cap can be out of round, the crank has to be turned down .005, .010, or .015.... .020 makes it a large chunk of garbage... The you have to get the appropriate bearings and the like... at which point he might just as well used a rebuild kit... You bottom end is through again, you have perfectly described bottom end trouble...

I can understand where your parents are coming from, that car is getting expensive... If it were me, yes I would keep it... I know a couple of people so getting a motor would not be a big challange...

But the dealership is going to get very expensive... You need a good mechanic that has great word of mouth, and has knoiwledge over the 3800'*

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Old 05-11-2006, 11:29 AM   #6
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I predicted engine failure last week.

It also seems as if your Torque Converter is slipping badly under acceleration.
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:35 AM   #7
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Ripoff at $150/hr if that'* the shop rate you're getting.
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Old 05-11-2006, 06:23 PM   #8
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Vital: Yes, it'* confirmed. Called the mechanic. He says he'* got an engine coming down here from somewhere up north (assuming MN, WI, or U.P of MI)

Says it'* going in for nothing, and it'* got 50-55 thousand miles. I'm debating whether I should get the upper intake gasket and intake manifold and all that stuff in a few months since this will probably not have had it done.. Hopefully it'* a newer engine so it has that nicer looking cover on it

Mrbell: Meh, long as I'm not paying.. it'* cool with me, whatever he wants his move to be.. guessing he'* fed up with my car and just wants to do this instead.

Boost: Yes, we've thought about taking him to court, but he'* usually done all our familys repairs within the last 6 years..done them flawlessly.. it'* not him personally working on it, he just bought a shop, and his mechanics are doing the work now.. but I basically told him "Well, I don't want anyone touching that bonne unless it'* you"
he just said okay, he'd see what he could do. He used to do repairs out of his garage up until about october.. he lives two houses down from me, so it'* pretty close when i have a problem instead of driving 9 miles out from here to the shop

Jrs3800: Yes, this happened with the suburban I used to have.. They (they being my parents) dropped 5 Grand into that truck, it was bought for $8,350 in july, and between july and january, i'd grenaded the differential, cracked 3 lifters (which the first is surely my fault.. holeshots and then hitting onto a dry spot will surely crack a diff right quick) but the lifters, i'm not too sure.. then, a/c system was replaced by the dealer for $1,400, and a bunch of little stuff; brakes, shocks, wheelbearings, pitman arm, new steering wheel(OEM was cracked, got an aftermarket lookalike with leather), and brake lines, and an exhaust system.. since i didn't make too much money being scheduled 10 hrs a week, that.. and they orig. bought it to tow a trailer/camper, so they figured they'd let me cover 1/4 of the bills for it all and call it 'mine' which is how i got it basically, lol

Wren: I knew something hadn't been right when I got the car back, and got back into my spirited driving habits.. my mom was with me and she'* like 'so is the performance any better' and i said idk, let'* see what kind of cojones she'* gotten back..' and i floored it, and it'* slower than it was, like, even slower than my stepdads' single cammed cavalier .. she'* like 'that'* not right' and the next day, i was *'posed to go to the cemetery, but halfway there, oil pressure was going nuts, and the engine died at a stoplight and i got it started, and just drove home

Ryan: Nah, I said the dealer (if i went there) would prob. charge me 150/hour

this guy only charges like 65/70
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Old 05-11-2006, 06:29 PM   #9
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I do reccomend that you use your new upper, and replace the lower gaskets on the new motor...

The 95'* should pull pretty hard bone stock... It won't be much fater than a 96-97 but they aren't managed so bad by the PCM... we'll see what the new motor does for you..

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Old 05-11-2006, 06:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
I do reccomend that you use your new upper, and replace the lower gaskets on the new motor...

The 95'* should pull pretty hard bone stock... It won't be much fater than a 96-97 but they aren't managed so bad by the PCM... we'll see what the new motor does for you..
well, good idea! just recently replaced the plugs and wires too
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