Smoke when I start the engine???
09-16-2003, 12:22 AM
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I tried to rev the engine good not too long ago to see if it smoked. Nope, clear. Just seems as if it only does it when it starts. The last time it did it was at night. It looked White to me. Could have had blue in it. I smelled it to make sure it wasn't vapor. That when I found out it smells like burnt oil. Isn't it strange for an engine to have this with only 26,000 miles on it?
09-16-2003, 01:43 AM
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my car did that when my valve cover gaskets were bad...it smoked when i started it for about 30 seconds then stopped...was whitish color...check that...they are easy to do
09-16-2003, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 89BonnieSE89
Does it have a burnt sweet plastic smell to it?
09-16-2003, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 89BonnieSE89
Coolant...keep an eyes...very very important... :?
Did I say its important
Did I say its important
09-16-2003, 10:05 PM
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I wanted to chime in here (new member) they are correct in advising you on the valve guide seals. They are seals that keeps oil from entering the combustion chamber "around the valve". If you follow the recommendation of having someone following you (or have someone else drive your car 
) it is important you wind it out a little and then let off of the gas "completely". The engine will draw the heaviest vacuum it can have, and will drive oil past a set of valve guides...if they are weak. If the seals are bad, you will see faint blue smoke (btw-blue for oil, white is coolant) You stated it only had 26000 miles on it, which tells me it has been rebuilt recently, do you know what type of valve seals they put on? The old umbrella seals were nortorious for this, but you should have the newer teflon seals that fit snug onto the bosses of the head - that the valves go through, if they were improperly installed, could cause premature failure. They can be replaced in a few hours time, with a spring compressor tool, and the heads still on the car. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to steer you in the right direction.
) it is important you wind it out a little and then let off of the gas "completely". The engine will draw the heaviest vacuum it can have, and will drive oil past a set of valve guides...if they are weak. If the seals are bad, you will see faint blue smoke (btw-blue for oil, white is coolant) You stated it only had 26000 miles on it, which tells me it has been rebuilt recently, do you know what type of valve seals they put on? The old umbrella seals were nortorious for this, but you should have the newer teflon seals that fit snug onto the bosses of the head - that the valves go through, if they were improperly installed, could cause premature failure. They can be replaced in a few hours time, with a spring compressor tool, and the heads still on the car. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to steer you in the right direction.
09-17-2003, 04:58 PM
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This engine was never rebuilt, it was bought from a 1994 or 1995 SE ( The dealership said it came from a newer Bonneville, Being it is a series I, I assume he ment it was from a 1995.) in a salvage yard when the origional engine hydrolocked and died. It had 22,000 miles on it when it was put in my car. My step dad looked at the car it came out of with the dealer and said it did have 22,000 miles on it. The car it came out of was hit in the rear.
09-17-2003, 05:24 PM
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jkinney is dead-on. It sounds like we have an experienced gearhead here 
As for your engine, if it is a Series I, it is a 1994. For the 1995 model year, Naturally Aspirated engines were Series II (L36) and Supercharged engines were Series I (but still called L67'*). I wonder if the odometer was rolled back on the wrecked Bonneville?
As for your engine, if it is a Series I, it is a 1994. For the 1995 model year, Naturally Aspirated engines were Series II (L36) and Supercharged engines were Series I (but still called L67'*). I wonder if the odometer was rolled back on the wrecked Bonneville?
09-17-2003, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jkinney
I wanted to chime in here (new member) they are correct in advising you on the valve guide seals. They are seals that keeps oil from entering the combustion chamber "around the valve". If you follow the recommendation of having someone following you (or have someone else drive your car ) it is important you wind it out a little and then let off of the gas "completely". The engine will draw the heaviest vacuum it can have, and will drive oil past a set of valve guides...if they are weak. If the seals are bad, you will see faint blue smoke (btw-blue for oil, white is coolant) You stated it only had 26000 miles on it, which tells me it has been rebuilt recently, do you know what type of valve seals they put on? The old umbrella seals were nortorious for this, but you should have the newer teflon seals that fit snug onto the bosses of the head - that the valves go through, if they were improperly installed, could cause premature failure. They can be replaced in a few hours time, with a spring compressor tool, and the heads still on the car. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to steer you in the right direction.
) it is important you wind it out a little and then let off of the gas "completely". The engine will draw the heaviest vacuum it can have, and will drive oil past a set of valve guides...if they are weak. If the seals are bad, you will see faint blue smoke (btw-blue for oil, white is coolant) You stated it only had 26000 miles on it, which tells me it has been rebuilt recently, do you know what type of valve seals they put on? The old umbrella seals were nortorious for this, but you should have the newer teflon seals that fit snug onto the bosses of the head - that the valves go through, if they were improperly installed, could cause premature failure. They can be replaced in a few hours time, with a spring compressor tool, and the heads still on the car. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to steer you in the right direction.
We need as many knowledgable gearheads here as we can get...glad to have you.