Rotors: Cheap vs. Premium
Way back wehn I did my switch toe ceramic pads, the Advance Wearever rotors wear really thin, even thinner than the Azone cheapies. Advance also had Raybestos PG plus rotors, over twice the cost and excellent thickness.
When I got my stuff, I was told ceramic pads don't transfer heat to the caliper/suspension as semi-metallics do and a thicker, drilled or slotted rotor might be needed to avoid warpage (on such a large car)
Higheremotions, have them pull one of each for you, you'll see the difference quite easily. The cheapies are like $25 each and the PG'* are Like $55....
I went with the PG'*
When I got my stuff, I was told ceramic pads don't transfer heat to the caliper/suspension as semi-metallics do and a thicker, drilled or slotted rotor might be needed to avoid warpage (on such a large car)
Higheremotions, have them pull one of each for you, you'll see the difference quite easily. The cheapies are like $25 each and the PG'* are Like $55....
I went with the PG'*
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 30
From: Enfield, CT






HigherE
My suggestion would be to go with ceramic pads and a Raybestos or Bendix rotor. That way you have low brake dust, increased braking and longer wearing rotors and pads.
It'* a little more expensive (especially the pads) but well worth it.
My suggestion would be to go with ceramic pads and a Raybestos or Bendix rotor. That way you have low brake dust, increased braking and longer wearing rotors and pads.
It'* a little more expensive (especially the pads) but well worth it.
I've now seen the second reference to drilled rotors in this topic. They are BAD NEWS for a street car. They are for track use primarily. The holes are a purely cosmetic ricer gimmick, that will shorten (sometimes in a DRAMATIC way) your rotor life. Perhaps your OWN life.
Slotted are great, drilled are a NO-NO.
Slotted are great, drilled are a NO-NO.
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The Bendix Rotors should be about $50 a shot
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