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-   -   Rebuilding a supercharger (https://www.gmforum.com/general-gm-chat-88/rebuilding-supercharger-292126/)

Danthurs 05-26-2010 05:07 PM

Rebuilding a supercharger
 
16 Attachment(s)
Here I am rebuilding a M62 supercharger. When I'm all done I will make up a write up and post it in the tech info area. This will cover all superchargers, the only exception is the gen5 needle bearings.

The M62
Attachment 24154

The rebuild parts, bearings and seal.
Attachment 24155

Removing all the parts.
Attachment 24156

PCV valve.
Attachment 24157

Attachment 24158

Removing the snout.
Attachment 24159

Opening it up.
Attachment 24160

Coupler
Attachment 24161

Rotors.
Attachment 24162

Parts needed to remove the needle bearings. 1/8" NPT tap, 1/8" brass nipple, 1/8" brass NTP coupler, and a 1/8" NTP zerk. And a 11/32 drill bit.
Attachment 24163

Drilling out behind the bearings.
Attachment 24164

All drilled.
Attachment 24165

Tapping the holes.
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Installed the zerk
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Could be messy when the bearings come out, so putting a rag in the way.
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Pumping grease in.
Attachment 24169

Rockstar04 05-26-2010 05:22 PM

Whats your preferred method of pressing the needle bearings back in?

Danthurs 05-26-2010 05:26 PM

Take a 17mm socket with a long extension. Put the socket on the extension upside down. Then press them in with a Arbor press.

By the way, it's going to take a good grease gun to force them out. Mine is leaking around the end so I'm taking it in to work. I'm already looking at a new grease gun.

Purplehazeir 05-26-2010 05:57 PM


Originally Posted by Danthurs (Post 1457786)
Take a 17mm socket with a long extension. Put the socket on the extension upside down. Then press them in with a Arbor press.

By the way, it's going to take a good grease gun to force them out. Mine is leaking around the end so I'm taking it in to work. I'm already looking at a new grease gun.

Yep...takes a grease gun with little miles on it or lot's of pressure to get those bearings to pop out.

I've used a piece of iron wood dowel, a small level and a dead blow...little taps until it get's going, and then heavier taps. The key is to keep the dowel perpendicular to the case.

DO NOT PUT GREASE ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE NEEDLE BEARING TO AID IT IN....bad things will happen!

Danthurs 05-26-2010 06:10 PM

Yep, goes in dry. You don't want them to spin or work out.

trixster68 05-26-2010 06:43 PM

WoW I see you got it. I am glad it got there in one piece. The write up is sure nice and the pictures Rock! I must say thank you Dan for helping me out and doing this for me. I can't wait to put it back in my Bonnie and fire her up.

Danthurs 05-26-2010 06:56 PM

Should go out Tuesday, darn holiday weekend is messing things up.

trixster68 05-26-2010 07:01 PM

That's all right with me it will just be nice to have a car again. She is just sitting in the driveway hoping for a better day. Been walking and it hasn't been no fun, I guess not having a job right has helped. I am just trying to get by each day right now until something comes along. Thanks so much Dan! You are the Best!

BillBoost37 05-27-2010 07:10 AM

4 Attachment(s)
Dan since you are buying a new gun, consider the trigger handle ones. I love mine for one handed operation while holding the hose on the zerk with the other.

I've used a press, and gently tapped with sockets and a brass hammer. Both work about the same, the key is to install straight....this is much tougher on an M90 as the inlet is angled to one side.

Tapping an M90 it would be nice to have a longer tap. The distance from the side of the casing and the depth could be a challenge for someone going at it for the first time.

Hehe found the pics from a write up I did in the past.
Attachment 24150

Notice the hole on the left in this pic. It's tight to the side
Attachment 24151

Attachment 24152

Fire in the hole (Pop)
Attachment 24153

SAMzGXP 05-27-2010 12:03 PM

took me forever to know how to remove them when i was polishing my M90 lol

but thanks for sharing :D


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