Oil remaining in pan after fully drained - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-20-2005, 03:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
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Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
ok bill This is the GM WAY to properly do it....facts are facts...but i guess they are wrong..


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE

to solve dropping the pan problem when the drain plug is removed, take a fresh quart of oil and pour it in....and then let it drain...
IF oil pan is removed BE SURE to fill oil fiter with oil to prevent bearing damage....because the oil pump will suck air before the vehicle has pressure.....ALSO remove connector on the ICM and spin engine over to ensure oil pressure
Pat, I think he'* getting at the point that he'* after information ONLY at this point, and that he would then use that information to compile a valid procedure based on OUR best practices rather than GM (who we all know has been wrong before).
ya sorry to try and help....why would someone that has done more UIM'* than anyone on this club know what is right and what is wrong..
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Old 12-20-2005, 03:40 PM   #12
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Pat, my intent was to help with the misunderstanding between you two.

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Please post if your series motor, NA or SC and if you had oil left in the pan and approximately how much.

My interest is data only, please keep the fluff to a minimum.
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Old 12-20-2005, 03:44 PM   #13
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ok that is fine....i didnt think that a correct procedure for removing the oil was fluff???there will always be used oil in the pan after a change on our cars....if you would remove all the oil you wouldnt have pressure for the first couple seconds upon startup with the remote pump...

and the procedure is the only way (without dropping the pan) to remove all the contaminated oil from the bottom of the pan....it also needs to be said to drive the car for 50-100 miles and then change the oil again
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Old 12-20-2005, 03:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
ok that is fine....i didnt think that a correct procedure for removing the oil was fluff???there will always be used oil in the pan after a change on our cars....if you would remove all the oil you wouldnt have pressure for the first couple seconds upon startup with the remote pump...

and the procedure is the only way (without dropping the pan) to remove all the contaminated oil from the bottom of the pan....it also needs to be said to drive the car for 50-100 miles and then change the oil again
That'* great info Pat, but what Bill asked for was this:

Quote:
Please post if your series motor, NA or SC and if you had oil left in the pan and approximately how much.
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Old 12-20-2005, 03:47 PM   #15
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I apologize... . apparently I worded the first post poorly.

I am trying to merely understand if all of the motors LN3, L27, L36 and L67 (S1 and S2) have been found to have approximately 1/3 of a quart in the oil pan after being drained via drain plug.

My concern and attempt to gather this info is for the L36 primarily and others changing gaskets etc. The drain plug is not on the bottom of the pan, but actually a fraction of an inch up on the side of the pan.

Possible Issue 1:
This could allow for an person with a intake failure to think they drained all the coolant and still have 1/3 of a quart in the pan.

Possible Issue 2:
Very soon after changing internal gaskets (like intake) an oil change should be done to remove any stray particles that may have gotten into the oil. In the case of this extra oil being in the bottom of the pan...the gasket particles may not drain with the oil and continue to sit in the bottom of the oil pan. This could lead to that material getting picked up later and possibly lodging in the filter or clogging a small port in the motor.

Again...Sorry about the confusion.
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Old 12-20-2005, 04:00 PM   #16
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I've never pulled mine off, so I have no idea how much oil is left over. But, as stated previously, due to the shape of the pan and location of the plug, if you just drain it normally, there will always be some left in there.

So, and the reason I'm replying at all, I would suggest that anyone doing major repairs like those listed should pull the pan. The only reservation I have regarding this recommendation is the type of gasket used. Is it a reusable gasket, like on the tranny? If not, is it worth the extra cost and time?

The only time I have pulled an oil pan, the gasket was actually 4 pieces and the back piece had to be balanced as it had no tabs or anything to hold it in place. The SOB ended up leaking so bad that I would go through several quarts of oil a week, and eventually ended up blowing the engine.

The point of that story is, again, is it worth the time and effort to worry about less than a quart of oil in the pan? If it is contaminated oil (UIM failure for example) it most likely will be. Anything else, it might not be worth the risk/hassle....
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Old 12-20-2005, 04:11 PM   #17
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Oil pan gaskets are not reusable on the 97 L67, not sure on any others.

And yes, it is extra work and a pain. I would probably recommend it on an intake failure. Water being heavier than oil, some water could be left in the bottom of the pan. Basically the opportunity for damage to your motor after fixing an intake failure.

At this point I'm not saying the other motors have this issue. Although it seems from Corvettes response the 96 L36'* do. Merely trying to collect a little data to help the community in a possible problem area I noticed.
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Old 12-20-2005, 06:55 PM   #18
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I think just about every LN3, L27, L67 series I and 2 , and every L36 on earth will retain about 1/3 of a quart no matter how you drain the oil... The bottom of the pan physically sits lower than the Drain Plug...

If you were to look at some of the older LN7 or LG3 engines you may find that some of them have a channel of sorts that the drain plugs sits in, and with these pans I would think all the oil comes out...


On another Note, I reccomend filling the oil filter as much as possible to shrink the amount of time the engine is starved for oil, I know its very short, But the faster the engine can get the oil the better...

And I have used the pour a quart in method to get the reast of the nasty oil out too... But I seldom ever let my oil get as black as tar so I'm not usually too worried about it...

Bill B, anything else you need to know?

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