My instructions did. :

One is Analog 1 and the other is Analog 2. Don't hook them to anything. The ground is automatically supplied through the DLC.

Yeah, I figured the ground was in the connector.

Install will be a snap – unless I can't find the correct brown HUD wire – I have hundreds of those tap-in connectors – makes things easy. I'll take some night shots later!

If I can suggest..please don't use the tap ins.

They frequently cut many strands of the wire.. if you cut too many..then all the load is based on 2-3 strands of a 30 strand wire.. 10%...

Also keep in mine that the instructions for mine said that it wanted a good dedicated power supply. It mentioned that if you had odd behavior it may be caused by a poor power connection.

Yeah, I read about the possible poor connection which can cause issues...

Hmmm, I don't have a soldering iron though. I'll figure something out if the tap-in seems to murder the wires. I can test them on a sample wire first. Or I suppose I can manually wrap the wire strands around the power supply and heat shrink it up.

There'* a brown wire for the HUD switch that seems to be a popular power spot.

Didn't Haro say that you only needed to plug it into the OBD II?

No, we need to use the gauge'* power wire as well. There are cars that only require the OBD2 connection. Ours are not one of them.

mine is

I dont even have the mini connector plugged in

Uh Pete..try it w/o the power wire.

make sure you put the jumper back in first

I'm giggling here thinking about you being so sure about this, but you clearly stated you hadn't read the directions

I tried mine without external power. it actually worked once, but I tied into the yellow switched 12 on the back of the radio, mounted mine in the cig lighter space.