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Old 09-21-2006, 12:41 PM   #11
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Pete, let'* see some pics of what you have for a gasket and EGR tube.
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:47 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Pete, let'* see some pics of what you have for a gasket and EGR tube.
I will get some pics taken tonight. I will stop at some auto stores on the way home for some gasket material.
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Old 09-21-2006, 02:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MOS95B
www.partsamerica.com has the real gaskets for as low as $2.79.
They don't have gaskets for an EGR tube though...BUT maybe I could get the egr VALVE gasket and cut it to fit. Hmmmmm

EGR VALVE gasket:
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:46 PM   #14
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Pete, you're talking about where the pipe goes into the SC? You shouldn't need a gasket there.

I needed one, as my Gen2 EGR tube is a smaller diameter than the port on the Gen3 Supercharger, so I just cut a custom one from another standard EGR gasket:

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Stock applications shouldn't need to do this. This should only be needed for a Gen2 to Gen3 swap.
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:13 PM   #15
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Bill, I just don't want to risk cracking the tube since it doesn't sit flush on its own. If I tighten it too much I'm afraid it will push the flared part unevenly around the opening and it may crack it. It may not, but since I don't know for sure I don't want to try. I hope I'm making sense when I am explaining why I could use a gasket.

Ok, here are some pics.

This shows how the 'flare' is not fully flush within the recess of the bracket. The stock tube was fully recessed so it sat flat against both surfaces. The stock flare is completely flat, this one is rounded.
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I bought an EGR valve gasket and I think I will have enough material for the top and bottom. The white gasket is a quick test piece I made of illustration board. It'* the absolute most I would need for the gasket.
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This is one of the ways I can make a gasket.
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:49 PM   #16
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I made a couple new holes in the gasket. Kind of a pain with the material, but it seems like it'* going to work. I'm going to go try it out.

EDIT: Worked great! The gaskets were enough to cushion the flares and keep it from pinching tight. That solves my 5 month+ long vacuum problem, as far as I know..
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Old 09-22-2006, 01:22 AM   #17
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Pete, it'* designed to NOT use a gasket. You may induce leaks. That fitting is what you call a 'compression' fitting. It'* designed NOT to fit flush, so the clamping force seals it.

I would strongly recommend removing the gasket you made. I HAVE to use one because my stock tube is too small for the Gen3 SC I swapped to.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:12 AM   #18
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I'm always making my own gaskets for the little mower engines. I buy an OEM gasket to use as a pattern and then I get some gasket material and make duplicates; as long as they're not too intricate. I've got a full set of hole punches too. They're the kind that you strike with a hammer like a pin punch. If you can't find the automotive hole punches, the kind like at the leather supply shop work excellent. Oh yeah, I cut them out with an X-ACTO knife.

One time I bought a Briggs & Stratton gasket that was missing a hole for a carburetor screw.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:08 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
This shows how the 'flare' is not fully flush within the recess of the bracket. The stock tube was fully recessed so it sat flat against both surfaces. The stock flare is completely flat, this one is rounded.
I wouldn't be too concerned about cracking the pipe. It'* a thin, soft, steel and is meant to deform when it'* clamped down...that'* where the seal comes from. I would not gasket this connection.
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Old 09-22-2006, 09:57 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Pete, it'* designed to NOT use a gasket. You may induce leaks. That fitting is what you call a 'compression' fitting. It'* designed NOT to fit flush, so the clamping force seals it.

I would strongly recommend removing the gasket you made. I HAVE to use one because my stock tube is too small for the Gen3 SC I swapped to.
That'* exactly what I had thought at first (clamping it forces the flare flat). But I couldn't see how it could tighten it evenly all the way around, with only one bolt off to the side. And since my last one was cracked right at that joint, I figured it was due to overtightening.

I had no leaks today, and the car drove better than it has been for a while actually.

But I'll go ahead and try again without the gaskets. My gaskets were just so I didn't waste $40 on a pipe that I could crack by tightening it incorrectly, since I don't have another $40.

Quote:
It'* a thin, soft, steel
That'* exactly why I'm worried I'll crack it with uneven pressure. But I know what you're saying.
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