Keyless Entry/Passenger side unlocks all doors
#1
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Keyless Entry/Passenger side unlocks all doors
The keyless entry dosnt work at all. The door unlocks from the passenger and driver side but has to be done on the passenger side to keep from setting the factory alarm off. How can I chage it from the passenger side to the driver side?
#2
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There is two ways to disarm the factory system: Keyless entry and unlocking with the key in the door. The factory alarm will not disarm by pressing the unlock switch in the doors. Since your keyless entry isn't working, you gotta use the key. If the system does not disarm by unlocking from the drivers key cylinder than there must be an open circuit. There is a light green wire that starts at the key cylinders and goes to the Remote Accessory Control (RAC). When the key is turned to unlock, a ground is sent to the RAC which disarms the alarm.
If you have a voltmeter you can test the wire. I find it easier to access the wires for testing in the door jamb boot. You should look for a short to ground when the key is turned to the unlock position.
If you have a voltmeter you can test the wire. I find it easier to access the wires for testing in the door jamb boot. You should look for a short to ground when the key is turned to the unlock position.
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I have to use the passenger side lock to disarm the system and unlock all the doors. Normally its on the driver side door. I was wondering how can i switch it to the driver side?.
#4
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It'* not necessarily a switch thing... it'* more of a fix thing. You should be able to disarm and unlock all doors from either door.
The most likely place for this to fail is right at the key cylinder. The light green wire could have come off. Since it'* such a PITA to take off the door panel, you should test the wire as described above to insure that you aren't going through some unnecessary disassembly.
In this pic, you can see the wire. It'* the light green wire that the T-tap is connected to. It'* mych easier to troubleshoot from here than inside the door.
The most likely place for this to fail is right at the key cylinder. The light green wire could have come off. Since it'* such a PITA to take off the door panel, you should test the wire as described above to insure that you aren't going through some unnecessary disassembly.
In this pic, you can see the wire. It'* the light green wire that the T-tap is connected to. It'* mych easier to troubleshoot from here than inside the door.
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Well if you guys know a thing or 2 how about helping me. My factory alarm works fine other than it wont arm when i press the lock button. If i stick my hand in the window and unlock the door manually it wont trigger the horn/siren to go off. Is there a wire i can test for that?
#6
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There are three ways to arm the system:
Keyless entry remote
Key in either door & turn to lock
Press either lock switch on the inside of the door (dome light must be on)
Also, it takes 30 seconds to fully arm before an open door will trigger the alarm.
I'd like to first verify that your dome lights come on when you open the door and that you are waiting the 30 seconds for the system to arm prior to manually unlocking and opening the door.
Keyless entry remote
Key in either door & turn to lock
Press either lock switch on the inside of the door (dome light must be on)
Also, it takes 30 seconds to fully arm before an open door will trigger the alarm.
I'd like to first verify that your dome lights come on when you open the door and that you are waiting the 30 seconds for the system to arm prior to manually unlocking and opening the door.
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