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Old 06-17-2006, 01:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
i just want my car to go for just 1 month without breaking anytthing.. ill be 20000X happier
Is anyone in your house mechanicly inclined?

That pump can be changed out in less than 1 hr and costs $30

On the 95-99 L36 I can do these in no time
My mom'* fiancee is, I am slightly, my mom knows more about a car than I do, so yeah, 3 people. I can't say much for my brother, he just knows how to detail 'em. What'* involved? Have a copy of an alldata procedure or something?
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:22 PM   #12
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Too bad I wasn't closer, I'd do it for ya.
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Old 06-17-2006, 01:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
i just want my car to go for just 1 month without breaking anytthing.. ill be 20000X happier
Is anyone in your house mechanicly inclined?

That pump can be changed out in less than 1 hr and costs $30

On the 95-99 L36 I can do these in no time
My mom'* fiancee is, I am slightly, my mom knows more about a car than I do, so yeah, 3 people. I can't say much for my brother, he just knows how to detail 'em. What'* involved? Have a copy of an alldata procedure or something?
First break the bolts loose on the water pump pulley( less than a turn ) Then
You have to remove the Belt( it doesn't have to be removed completly, just out of the way... No need to remove the sleeve to pull the belt, It just needs to move to allow you enough room to remove the water pump )... Remove the bolts for the water pump pulley and the pulley...

The Power steering pump will have 2 13mm( might be 1/2 I forget ) bolts that will need to be removed, they are on the top and bottom of the pump and can be accessed through the holes in the power steering pump pulley... Once the bolts are removed, push the pump out of the way slightly, be careful not to push too hard as the oil pressure sender is back in that general area, just move the pump enough to access the last water pump bolt... There will be 4 13mm( 1/2 ) bolts and 4 10mm bolts if memory serves...

Remove the old pump, clean the sealing surfaces and install the new pump and gasket, bolt it all down, install the 2 bolts on the power steering pump, install the water pump pulley and bolts( snug em down as good as you can), then install the belt and tighten the water pump pulley bolts the rest of the way...

Refill the coolant and then start the car and check for leaks...

Being that there are several of you that are somewhat mechanically inclined, you guys could save the $$$ and replace the pump... Not hard at all

You may want to drain the coolant....

I have always used a Sterlite( spelling ) catch pan from wally world to catch all of the coolant that runs out.... To each his or her own on that one tho

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Old 06-17-2006, 01:55 PM   #14
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just adding onto what he said ^^

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Old 06-17-2006, 02:01 PM   #15
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*UPDATE*

I finally became unlazy and went outside and put actual water in the radiator since I was curious.. It'* not the pump (yet..) but it is the L-shaped elbow from the LIM to the water pump intake port.. Split in half right down where it was molded.

I hate plastic.

I'm keeping the waterpump procedure so I can use that at a later time, though if I'm the one who'* doing it and not my mechanic.
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Old 06-17-2006, 03:29 PM   #16
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Hooray!!
Hey, I went from fixing nothing to fixing things I thought I couldnt with help from the club. In the words of the Cajun from " Water Boy",,,," You can do it!!!!!"
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
*UPDATE*

I finally became unlazy and went outside and put actual water in the radiator since I was curious.. It'* not the pump (yet..) but it is the L-shaped elbow from the LIM to the water pump intake port.. Split in half right down where it was molded.

I hate plastic.

I'm keeping the waterpump procedure so I can use that at a later time, though if I'm the one who'* doing it and not my mechanic.
Ah..... That become a little bit more of a headache.... Depending on the route taken to repair that problem it could cost as much as $60 roughly....

But if yoremove the tensioner assembly and break anything on it the cost could go up... The Elbow is cheap and an easy replacement... It wouldn't be hard for me to have it apart and back together in an afternoon...

It really would have been easier if it was the waterpump

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Old 06-17-2006, 04:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by erics95se
*UPDATE*

I finally became unlazy and went outside and put actual water in the radiator since I was curious.. It'* not the pump (yet..) but it is the L-shaped elbow from the LIM to the water pump intake port.. Split in half right down where it was molded.

I hate plastic.

I'm keeping the waterpump procedure so I can use that at a later time, though if I'm the one who'* doing it and not my mechanic.
Ah..... That become a little bit more of a headache.... Depending on the route taken to repair that problem it could cost as much as $60 roughly....

But if yoremove the tensioner assembly and break anything on it the cost could go up... The Elbow is cheap and an easy replacement... It wouldn't be hard for me to have it apart and back together in an afternoon...

It really would have been easier if it was the waterpump
Idk anything about it other than it split right down the mold line. .my mechanic hopefully has it done by tonight so i can go out later. lol
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Old 06-17-2006, 04:42 PM   #19
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That will sure be an expensive $7 elbow.... Let us know the final bill

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Old 06-17-2006, 04:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
That will sure be an expensive $7 elbow.... Let us know the final bill
blech.
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