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Old 04-28-2009, 01:32 PM   #21
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IMO...no need to add any oil additives. Just get that oil changed and lets see where you are.
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Old 04-28-2009, 01:46 PM   #22
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On a 93, you want 10-30W. 0-5/30w is way to thin for a 16 year old car. You wont find a staff member here that will endorse any oil additive. Mechanics don't come in a can. If there is damage maybe an additive will temporarily stop some noise, but thinking high viscosity is going to "fill in" tolerances of worn out parts has sold "snake oil" additives and caused people to throw away their money for 100 years. Most do damage in other area'* as well. This thickened "gravy" will cause it not to be able to get to other important area'*.
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:00 PM   #23
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On a 93, you want 10-30W. 0-5/30w is way to thin for a 16 year old car. You wont find a staff member here that will endorse any oil additive. Mechanics don't come in a can. If there is damage maybe an additive will temporarily stop some noise, but thinking high viscosity is going to "fill in" tolerances of worn out parts has sold "snake oil" additives and caused people to throw away their money for 100 years. Most do damage in other area'* as well. This thickened "gravy" will cause it not to be able to get to other important area'*.
I agree... i think Mobil1 Syn 10w-30 AND additive would make it too thick... most people use 5w30 which is SLIGHTLY thinner, but given the circumstances... put in 10w30 this round to lube everything back up well, then NEXT oil change, drop to 5w-30 if you want, but NO ADDITIVES!
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:08 PM   #24
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ok im gonna change it tonight after work, when should i see something happen? when should it stop knocking?
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:11 PM   #25
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ok im gonna change it tonight after work, when should i see something happen? when should it stop knocking?
within a couple miles if not instanly... it should only take a couple of cycles for the pump to put the oil up to the lifters which is most likely where most of the noise is comming from... once they get well lubed then it should stop knocking... if not let us know
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:12 PM   #26
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ok im gonna change it tonight after work, when should i see something happen? when should it stop knocking?
Hopefully right away the knocking might stop. If not, then you will probably have some mechanical work that will be required.
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:16 PM   #27
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ok ill deff let u guys know, do u think it will make it the 3 miles to work and back today?
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:22 PM   #28
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IMO... yes... BABY HER! but yes if only a couple miles *btw waiving my responsibilities for saying yes lol drive at your own risk :P*

ive always been told 2 things about cars to remember, even bad oil is better than no oil, and if gonna break its gonna break. Change the oil ASAP, keep the miles low, and say a small prayer that its not already too late... i dont think it is, ive put in too thin of weight back in the day and my truck made it just fine, and i went about a hundred miles because i didnt have the money to put new oil back into it... these cars are built well so she SHOULD hold up but just be gentle and no high rpms

and let us know how she fares
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Old 04-28-2009, 02:36 PM   #29
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I'm also wondering if it'* a true knock or a valve tick. A true knock is quite loud, you cant make a mistake in noticing it. A vave tick on the other hand while not desirable can go on forever. My 89 LeSabre ticked for many moons.
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Old 04-28-2009, 05:35 PM   #30
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Default You didn't kill your engine

Rico, if your engine has a rod knock, it wasn't from 50 miles with synthetic oil. It would have been slowly getting bad for a longer period of time.
Like tlsheff stated, bad oil is way better than no oil at all.

Another thing. the '0' is a rating for how the oil flows at cold temperatures. It is still rated 30 for operating temperature.
Back in the 1980s Hendrick motorsports started using 5w30 in their Winston Cup engines. They found they could get more laps out of a load of fuel on the super speedways, and this was a factor in how they won the '86 Daytona 500. Think about how much heat and stress those engines go through.

The Synthetic oil drains back to the pan much better, so your valve train doesn't have the benefit of 'static oil' on start-ups, as well as it did with conventional oil. And I agree with the others that the lifters are probably what you are hearing.
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