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Old 04-08-2010, 09:44 AM   #11
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Reprogramming...uh what year did you say?

2002.. bummer. I don't have that unlocked. Intense-Racing can hook you up well for the changes you need.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:25 PM   #12
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Just got good news from the mechanic it appears it'* just the crank and the #4 rod. The heads are ok. So that means I won't need a whole used engine at this point. Any suggestions for a crank and pistons? I would rather replace them all right now than replace one and have an issue later.
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:01 PM   #13
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and more bad news so a new block it is. So I can order a PCM reprogram from intense? I'm goint to call Erik again but I just want to be sure I can use any L67 series II as a drop in I just need to get some other parts as well right. I just want to make sure that there aren't different mounting situations for different cars.

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Old 04-09-2010, 09:17 AM   #14
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You can use any engine. Being that you have the 2000, nearly any of them will work for you.

You will need to swap
Oil pan
Oil filter adapter
Oil pick up tube
Flexplate (no worries..balance is the same)

You will need to modify the fuel lines to fit the different location.

You will need the pcm and wiring kit.

And a lighter foot so you don't murder your differential in the transmission.
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Old 04-13-2010, 02:24 PM   #15
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i just did a swap from a 3.8 to the 4.6. I can walk you through it or tell you things you will need up front to do the project.
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:22 PM   #16
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So after dealing with a new time table issue, mechanic is moving his shop, we decided that a rebuild would be better. The total cost was less than a used engine shipped and no one local had an engine I could find.

The question I have is does the PCM. or a sensor, have a shut off in it if the temp gets too high? The problem we had was that it died on him while doing the test drive. I have a magic gas tank that never goes below a 1/4 tank and fills itself up as you accelerate. I assumed that it was out of gas. So we got some gas and the jump kit because it acted like the battery was dead when you would attempt to crank it. We come back put gas in try to start it a couple of times. After about 15 minutes it starts up no issue. While I'm driving it back to the shop I notice the temp gauge starts to climb it got about 30 degrees from red but I was less than a block away so I turned the heat on. No heat came out and I knew that it atleasst wasn't something catastrophic. Probably just not enough coolant or a stuck thermo. It dies as I pull into his driveway but never went red. We let it cool down and added more coolant. He'* doing another test drive now after about 30 miles and everything is nominal. So I'm wondering if there is something like that built in.
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Old 04-19-2010, 12:17 AM   #17
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It sounds like your Thermostat could be bad and is stuck shut. Other things to consider is your fans turning on? My sister had an old bonneville and had the same issue. the thermostat was bad and she needed to flush her radiator cause it was plugged up. One other large thing to consider. " We let it cool down and added more coolant. " If you had to add more coolant there are a number of things to check....
1. is there a leak..
2. Did you have the system drained of all the air and primed correctly. if not you would have these issues cause you are not pumping the hot fluid out of the engine and the cool fluid in. to ensure this. there is a air release valve on top of the pipe where the thermo stat is located.
3. dont be afraid to ask the people at autozone or other part stores. sometimes that can point you in the right way being old mechanics or just haveing the experiences from other customers.
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Old 04-19-2010, 01:08 AM   #18
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It seems that these engines are just a pain to fill when it comes to antifreeze. It bleeds out before it'* completely full and you need to run it longer than we did and top it off. We let it cool down for about an hour and then filled it again. The air bubble is gone and the car is running perfect. $1100 all said and done for the rebuild.

The oil pump went out and when the wife drove it it spun the #4 bearing and the #4 rod needed to be replaced. The block looked like it had 30k miles on it not the 147k it has. There wasn't even a ring around the cylanders. The pistons required minimal wire brushing and after we put it through the cleaner it had 0 scoring or marking anywhere. If they had figure out a way to wife proof these cars the engine would be indestructible.
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Old 04-19-2010, 07:35 AM   #19
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Yup, classic air bubble. Usually a little heating doesn't hurt the motors, not quite what you want to do, but it shouldn't hurt.

Oil pump huh? It'* very uncommon to see one go bad. I've seen one on the forums and that was a very high mile 93 SSEi.
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Old 04-20-2010, 02:03 AM   #20
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I'm guessing it was the pump all I know is the wife said that pressure went to 0 when stopped and would peg while driving. Either way her driving it to work and back ended up spinning a bearing. The engine is fine now that the air bubble is gone and I called the dealer today. They said there was a cutoff built into the PCM to cutoff the engine if the temp reached a certain point. They said it will kill the crank until tempreture is below 200. All accessories will run like normal. So if you ever stall out and your radio works but your car won't crank it could be a heat issue.
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