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Old 06-27-2006, 09:27 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chinski
But hey, my job is corrosion engineering and I have NACE certification so what would I know about this stuff anyway?
Chinski, Point taken well, I can not refute your presentation on cathodic protection. I am not by any means an expert on cathodic protection. My discipline is Steam & Electric Plant engineering. Well, anyway, back on topic. It would appear then, that this $100 automotive rust preventer system is a gimmick and to stay away from it.Thanks for the dissertation on Cathodic Protection.
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Old 06-27-2006, 10:42 PM   #32
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wow I was right and it was just a hunch on my part. pats self on the back and grabs another beer. ding!
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Old 06-28-2006, 12:30 AM   #33
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Not a corrosion engineer here, but enough EE to pretend I know what I'm talking about, even though I don't really understand this device:

This electrical gadget-doodad thing is supposed to hook up to the battery to provide electrons for corrosion resistance, or some claim like that. This just strikes me as moving the corrosion to the inside of your battery. I don't know if that'* actually the case or not, but if so, that'* arguably worse, depending on how much actual rust prevention it gives you -vs- how many batteries it eats. Besides I think this happens naturally, I've had my positive battery cables corrode in every car I've owned, and I think that'* caused by the same reaction.

Yes, your hot water heater definitely has a sacrificial anode in it, and yes, they are typically zinc, magnesium, or aluminum. When it corrodes away, your tank rusts, leaks, and then you need a new hot water heater. According to my professional plumber buddy, it'* not worth the time or expense to replace the anode (although you can buy them for under $100), because by the time they go, you probably want to get a new water heater anyway. Although I can think of some situtations where the cheaper choice would be more desireable.

The other problem I have conceptually with this device is that it'* supposedly using the battery as a "source of electrons" to protect the body. But wait, isn't the body already physically connected to the anode of the battery? How then is *any* other electrical connection to the body possible? All connections to the body would be referenced to the negative pole of the car battery. I don't get it.

A lot of people keep saying that tires are insulators. To some extent they are not. They have a lot of carbon in them, and this is used to earth-ground a car so that a car does not build up a giant static electricity charge on the body and shock you. (Ignoring my wife'* old 1972 AMC Gremlin that would zap anyone who touched it.)

Also, there'* a fair number of reactive metals other than steel used in cars. A lot of things are made of cast aluminum, and these are known to corrode and pit as they act precicely as a sacrificial anode. There'* even a company that sells a magnesium sacrificial anode built into a radiator cap to do the same thing, for under $25. Check it out here:
http://www.radcapproducts.com/prodinfo.html

These guys sell it and claim that electrolytic corrosion is a leading cause of mechanical breakdowns. (Despite my having never *EVER* heard of a mechanical breakdown caused by this.)
http://www.automotion.com/productpag...e=Radiator+Cap

I'd personally be very skeptical that anything like this really works as an effective corrosion preventative. We definitely need Myth Busters!
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Old 06-28-2006, 08:36 AM   #34
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Quote:
Also, there'* a fair number of reactive metals other than steel used in cars. A lot of things are made of cast aluminum, and these are known to corrode and pit as they act precicely as a sacrificial anode. There'* even a company that sells a magnesium sacrificial anode built into a radiator cap to do the same thing, for under $25. Check it out here:
http://www.radcapproducts.com/prodinfo.html

These guys sell it and claim that electrolytic corrosion is a leading cause of mechanical breakdowns. (Despite my having never *EVER* heard of a mechanical breakdown caused by this.)
http://www.automotion.com/productpag...e=Radiator+Cap
As long as the cap is NOT isolated from the radiator I could see these working for the radiator. And if you electrically connected your engine block to the radiator it would protect all the coolant passages (internally only).
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:14 AM   #35
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I wish I could show this to the dealership that installed this in my car to show them they are ripping people off of their well-earned $800. Or who knows, maybe they don't know it won't work. Even if they do, they know they are ripping people off. The device comes with a warranty on it for as long as you own the car (if it'* purchased new) which is supposed to cover rust repair IF it happens. I never did see the fine print though. I feel good though in knowing I can continue to trust my instincts.
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Old 06-28-2006, 10:46 AM   #36
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If it came with a lifetime warranty for rust repair than maybe its worth it for that, especially if it covers rust related paint problems.

Kind of like when dealers offer undercoatings and fabric protection. Some are good and some are crap. Just one more thing they can sell you IMO.
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Old 06-28-2006, 11:31 AM   #37
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Only lifetime if it'* a new car. Mine was used (thought still a 2004), so it had a 4-year warranty. They did say it covered rust related problems, but I bet there'* a catch. There must be if they know it doesn't work like they claim. Still doesn't justify charging people $800 IMO.
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