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Ding Ding....Check Gauges...OIL PRESSURE LOOWW! Now RAP RAP!

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Old 01-20-2004, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
A few questions..

1) do you have any idea how long the car sat up before you bought it..? I get the feeling it had an upperintake issue before you got the car... If so that could be bad for the bottom end of the engine..

2) Chech and make sure the oil pan is not dented to hell and back... The Pickup tube and screen reside low down in the oil pan...

3) What kind of oil filter are you using on that car?

Hi Jr,

1) The car sat 1.5 yrs prior to its crash repair....and yes it was using anitfreeze since it was
fixed which would lead me to think it was using it before the crash also.

2) Oil Pan is perfect and shows no signs of an accident.

3) I can't remember what oil filter was on there when I was under the car last night...
I know it wasn't Fram...and I know it was white....Im not sure what the repair shop used
after the intake/head replacements....

I am going to call the guy I bought the car from today......there is a good chance he just
may want to buy this car back...its already cost him a small fortune and is upside down in
it by now....

I don't want to get rid of her....but...can't afford these trouble either...

I'll keep ya posted...

~Jeff
Old 01-20-2004, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by givemebreak
Good news and bad news...

I found the switch and replaced it...

Bad news.....Nothing has changed...
Cold start...40-50
drops as she warms all the way to half way in the red on idle
about 20 to 30 on cruise....

I will have access to a manual gauge on Saturday..but I am pretty sure its
gonna tell me the same thing....

I will tell you there are NO engine noises and the thing runs great..?!?!

uhg...Im start to really hate this car.....

COME ON CURSE.....TAKE ME AWAY!
Do a compression test (Wet & Dry) & pray it'* just an oil ring that'* broken!
Otherwise, it may be the start of:
A. bad Oil Pump.
or B. Conn Rod Bearing clearance.

Both are near fatel. I had the later with my 92 SE. The knocking stated only after the oil pressure dropped so low as to set the alarm off (low oil pressure ding) & the engine was starved for oil due to not enough pressure! If you get it fixed now, maybe you can get away with just a Crank Kit & bearings. I needed a whole engine due to the proposed damage to the Conn Rod & possible Block.
Old 01-20-2004, 04:03 PM
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I called the guy I got it from today and he was out of town...
I talked to his son and left a detailed message....

I will know more by morning.....

Thanks guys....
Old 01-20-2004, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
I'm gonna agree with Al here....

Seems that you have a problem somewhere... It sounds more like bad bearings in the bottom end... Make the guy who sold it to you install another 3800 II engine.. Or get you money back and find another Bonneville if you can..


Al, was it common for the 3800 and 3300 from 91 - 95 for the 3800, and 89- 93 for the 3300 to have some trouble with the clearances with the bearings in the bottom end... I knoe I have seen several 3300 die an early death due to the bearings in the bottom end, and before 100,000 miles too...
Well you know for starters that'* all not well when GM writes THIS!
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=12674
There is also this!

COLD ENGINE TICK/RATTLE AFTER STARTUP (REPL. PISTONS & PINS) #47-61-15 - (07/27/1994)
SUBJECT: COLD ENGINE TICK OR RATTLE AFTER START-UP (REPLACE PISTONS AND PINS)

MODELS: 1990-94 BUICK ELECTRA, LESABRE, REATTA, REGAL, RIVIERA AND PARK AVENUE 1990-94 OLDSMOBILE EIGHTY EIGHT, NINETY EIGHT AND TORONADO 1990-94 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE

1992-94 CHEVROLET LUMINA APV 1992-94 OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE 1992-94 PONTIAC TRANS SPORT WITH 3800 ENGINE (VIN L - RPO L27)

CONDITION:

PISTON PIN TICK OR RATTLE MAY BE DESCRIBED BY CUSTOMERS AS A TICKING NOISE THAT BEGINS SHORTLY AFTER COLD START-UP AND GRADUALLY DIMINISHES AS THE ENGINE WARMS UP. IN MOST CASES, THE NOISE IS GONE AFTER FIVE MINUTES. IN SEVERE CASES, THE NOISE MAY NOT DISAPPEAR WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT.

PISTON PIN NOISE OCCURS IN BOTH PARK AND DRIVE AT IDLE RPM, VARYING IN INTENSITY DEPENDING ON THE NUMBER OF PISTONS INVOLVED. A TICKING SOUND MEANS ONE PISTON IS AFFECTED; A MARBLY RATTLE OR DIESEL-TYPE SOUND MEANS TWO OR MORE PISTONS ARE AFFECTED.

CAUSE:

THE SPECIFICATION FOR PISTON-TO-PIN CLEARANCE IS 0.0004 TO 0.0008 INCH (0.010 TO 0.020MM). STUDIES HAVE SHOWN THAT TRACE LEVELS OF NOISE CAN OCCUR BETWEEN 0.0006 AND 0.0008 INCH (0.015 TO 0.020MM). WHEN THE CLEARANCE IS AT 0.0008 (0.020MM), THE NOISE MAY BECOME AUDIBLE TO THE CUSTOMER.

**NOTE** TESTS HAVE ALSO SHOWN THAT PISTON PIN RATTLE DOES NOT HAVE ANY NEGATIVE EFFECTS ON SHORT TERM OR LONG TERM ENGINE DURABILITY.

CORRECTION:

IF PISTON PIN NOISE IS DETECTED AND THE CUSTOMER DESIRES THE CONDITION TO BE CORRECTED, REPLACE ALL SIX PISTONS AND PINS. THE NEW PISTON SETS HAVE MINIMAL PISTON-TO-PIN CLEARANCES.

SERVICE INFORMATION:

USE THE PROCEDURE OUTLINED IN THE APPROPRIATE SERVICE MANUAL FOR PISTON REPLACEMENT.

**NOTE** WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW PISTON AND PIN ASSEMBLY ONTO THE EXISTING RODS, USE EXTREME CARE TO AVOID DAMAGE TO EITHER THE PIN OR PISTON PIN BORE. IF DAMAGE TO THESE AREAS OCCUR, THE NOISE WILL RETURN BECAUSE THE DAMAGE WILL CAUSE WEAR AND EXCESSIVE CLEARANCE.

PARTS INFORMATION: PISTON ASSEMBLY APPLICATION PART NUMBER ----------- --------------- 1990-92, INCLUDING 1993 BUICK RIVIERA 12537198 1993-94 12537200

PARTS ARE CURRENTLY AVAILABLE FROM GMSPO.
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.

But YES there has been a rise in the Series I'* having simular problems like this in the last year or so now!
Old 01-20-2004, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
If I had that problem that would make me want to rebuild for the heck of it.... It would be a bit $$$$$ though.. Always good info from the Rat...
No offense towards other Bonneville owners here, but this why I sold my 92 SE EGRless! I had to draw the line somewhere when the bottom end went.......Those who know me, know that I truly LOVED THAT CAR! It was very hard to give her up, but I'm not made of $$$$ as I just work for GM!
Old 01-20-2004, 09:35 PM
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my guesses are he will offer to buy the car back from me tomorrow....and I will most likely do so.....

That will leave me with the $2500 again to car shop......NOT FUN...
that don't get ya much....

and I hate to say it ...but another bonnie headache won't be in my future....
this has to be a dependable second car...and I cannot afford to sink money into
repairs..
t...the hell if I know what I will buy.... :?: :?:
Old 01-20-2004, 09:54 PM
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That'* a shame after restoring the body and interior of the car.
Old 01-20-2004, 10:01 PM
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I know what **could** be wrong
My oil pressure did the same thing. The car also sat for a long time, then after about 1000km I blew the number 1 cam bearing. The car will run fine, but the digging will start to **** you off.
Old 01-21-2004, 04:55 PM
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Out of curiousity, why is everyone automatically pointing at the bottom end? I realize 3800 have a bad record with the bottom end, but it without any knock, and the pressure drop, isn't it conceivible that it may have bad cam bearings, not rods or mains?
Old 01-21-2004, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1992 trofeo
I know what **could** be wrong
My oil pressure did the same thing. The car also sat for a long time, then after about 1000km I blew the number 1 cam bearing. The car will run fine, but the digging will start to **** you off.
lol.. smart guy... but another thing it could be is behind the oil filter theres a metering block and the spring in the metering block could be screwed.


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