The gaskets will be easy, but where do I buy the Dillon intake and Buttermore stovepipe from? Having trouble finding them online.

I had both the UIM and LIM replaced this year (new thermostat, coolant, Mobile One & filter oil change, plugs and wires, etc). I had my cousin'* brother in law do it for $450 - parts were only $250 .... labor was $200 - that'* where a garage will likely whack you... rates are $85 per hour around here....

If you went the route that I did (dealer fix) you're looking at close to $1,000 to have it all done. I had extra stuff done, so can't say exactly how much it would have cost if I didn't have the other work done... But, definitely pushing 4 figures...

PM Bob Dillon and Bill Buttermore on this Forum for those parts. I still believe that combination is a better alternative in quality and price to the APN or Dorman kits.

My future son-in-law just had a quote from the dealer on doing his upper...$435. We'll be doing the upper and the lower for about $150 including valve cover gaskets. That is assuming the upper is still good. I have the Bill Buttermore/Bob Keyes sleeve and stovepipe ready to go.

What Dick (Archon) is talking about are the shielded stovepipes described in this thread: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=70553

Here are some costs: APN upper (includes LIM to UIM gasket worth about $40) = $115 shipped to your house. GM aluminum frame LIM gaskets = $50-60. FelPro plastic frame LIM gaskets = $35-40. Dorman coolant elbows = $5. RTV Silicone sealant $5. Brake parts cleaner =$2. Machine work to turn APN pipe to fit your '99 = $20. 2 gallons of coolant = $16

A high quality torque wrench is helpful. other than that not much is needed. a shopvac would be nice to suck up the coolant. When I do my LIM Gaskets I'm going to buy a better torque wrench and get the shopvac ready.

The aftermarket and even oem UIMs should last the life of the vehicle...at least 3-5 years. most show signs after 5 years or so. A custom intake manifold is nice but I'm not sure its needed in the long run since you should be able to get 3 years worth of use out of any UIM, same story with the intake gaskets. those are the only real problems you have to worry about on your car so after you get them fixed the L36 is dang reliable and they last forever.

A high quality torque wrench is not needed. A reasonable and good working wrench will do fine. The two torque values you will need to be concerned the most with are 89inch lbs aka ~8 ft lbs and approximately 13-20ft lbs. Any indication of quality needed, I bought a ~$20 Harbor Freight special for the low values.

Instead of buying a shop vac, most of us that work on cars would recommend draining the coolant before starting the procedure. This single thing will save the cost of a shop vac.

For the time and effort, aim for the best costing and best parts you can get. Why settle for 3 years (which is unrealistically low IMO)? Fixing this properly and before it is necessary will keep this car on the road for years to come. By changing out the EGR stovepipe and sleeving the wall, cracking of the coolant/egr passages should not be an issue in the future.

Not sure where you're coming from on this Hans. An APN or improved Dorman or Dillon UIM should be a LIFETIME part. Not 3 years. We're talking about a solution to the problem here, not a band-aid.

I just ordered all of these parts to do my UIM/LIM, hopefully this weekend, and those are exactly my costs (I bought the aluminum framed LIM gasket)