Coolant Bypass Elbow
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Coolant Bypass Elbow
I know some members have been looking for coolant bypass elbows and inquiring on where to get them. Mr, Wren has stated that they are in the 'Help section" at Auto zone and come in a red package. This maybe true in some areas of the country. I live in the city that is Autozone is headquartered in. The new package for the coolant elbow is green with red stipes on the top and bottom, also the part number is 47065. Here is a pic of the new packaging to aid in spotting it on the rack.
I hope this helps somebody out.
I hope this helps somebody out.
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I got mine at AZ for $3.99 and I know alot of the old packages are all red with no green. Now I just have to wait till morning to have enough light to replace my leaking elbow.
#4
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Mmm yes..all red! Hey..I've had some of the new packaging and never noticed..lol
Removing the tensioner for the quick and easy replacement? Make sure to clean the openings well and lube the o rings on the new elbows.
Removing the tensioner for the quick and easy replacement? Make sure to clean the openings well and lube the o rings on the new elbows.
#6
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I've also ordered them at Advance for around $3, but honestly cannot remember the packaging, so thanks for posting that.
Yes, there has been quite a bit of comparison done and from what I recall, there is no real or discernable difference in the two.
It still does pay to carefully check each new one over for defects before putting it in your car though. Bill Wren had an experience with one that came with a nicked o-ring in the package.
Originally Posted by Barry
Has anyone compared these to the dealer elbow. Is there any difference in quality? Just curious.
It still does pay to carefully check each new one over for defects before putting it in your car though. Bill Wren had an experience with one that came with a nicked o-ring in the package.
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Thanks. I think I read the post about the nick in the o-ring that was covered by a colored lube coating the ring. Not sure if that was Bill or somebody else.
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Yes, Wren'* post saved my *** and I remembered to check the elbow out for cracks and defective O rings. All ports are clean and lubed and it was a real easy procedure. another post on here helped me find all the damn bolts that where hiding. On a sad note, while removing the tensioner I heard a SNAP! and the lower cast elbow was broken off inside the water pump. After using every cuss word I could think of, I invented 3 more and decided to goop the hell out of that elbow with J&B and reset it back in place. I ran the engine for an hour and topped off my coolant, no leaks. I went for a 2 hour drive... no leaks. I will be replacing the tensioner and water pump as well as LIM gaskets and UIM next week when I get the money. I also plan on doing a double by-pass on the cooling system at the same time. I will take a brass 'tree' with 2 connections for the heater hoses, run a hard line to the intake manifold end it will be attached to a 3/4 nipple that I will tap and thread into the intake. No more leaks and no more removing alt and tensioner if there is a leak.
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Nice going on that leak. That refit idea sounds cool. I'll be doing my LIM gaskets in the spring, and was not planing on taking the tensior off. I'd be interested in any tips from members about the best way to get the LIM in place while getting the elbow in. From what I heard it is a little tricky.
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Barry, it should be easy as heck if you do the elbow when you do the LIM gasket. I hope I can get pics of my coolant by-pass to help you out. My plan is to run the coolant through there own lines and not run coolant through the tensioner at all.
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