Cold Air Intake Pics and Descrip Inside - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 12-31-1969, 08:00 PM   #21
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No, the the intake will be made out of mild steel which will be totally powdercoated in the color of your choice (like to match with the color of your car kidna thing). The intake, filter and hopefully the silicon will match all together in your color choice. I need to know what colors you guys want so I can do the final tally, research, and give the final prices.

The red strip you are referring to is silicon which can withstand 700 degree F.

It would be impossible to make a T6061 aircraft aluminum intake for $75. Mine costed well over $150 just for the materials and I did it myself.

What I need is what color choices you guys are interested in, so far I hear green and blue.

csprague - The aluminum heats up like every other metal but even after hours under the hood, it is still cool enough that I can wrap my hand around it and not burn myself at all. I could if you want just make the aluminum part, cut it, drill the hole and all the custom stuff you want and you can put what filter you want on it.

Not sure what filter will be avaiable with this. I prefer foam over K&N because people generally tend to over oil K&N'* and then your MAF screws up and it'* a big mess. Mine is a Weapon R foam filter w/ a Velocity Stack (it has an opening on the top in the middle compared to a K&N which just sucks through the sides not developing speed but swirling the air instead).

I guess another idea is the have 3 systems avaiable.

1) Short ram setup but no filter so you can choose what you want or if you already have a filter.

2) Short ram setup with filter which will color coordinate with the intake and makes it easy to install.

3) Short ram with a heat shield to make it a Cold Air Intake and the heat shield will also match in color with the intake as well.


Also, another thing to address is that my Intake Air Temperature sensor was put closer to the filter by cutting the wires and resoldering it with extra wire length. I am going to check with my neighbor'* Grand Prix and check if his sensor is the same (should be silly GM). If it is, then I can offer two choices more with this intake.

1) Senor location is close enough to use with the stock wire length for the Intake Temperature Sensor which makes no guarentees in making as much power as one closer to the filter.

2) Sensor location next to the filter could be done if you cut the wires (not recommended if you havent done this for a car before since you need special wires than resist the underhood temp'* of a car.) But this option would result in you having to but the extension harness from the Grand Prix Store for $25 dollars so it will easily attach to the sensor location next to the filter.


What I would like to do is get a group buy going, like about 5 people to cut the costs, tell me what colors you want, and then I can figure out the final price and I can get working on copying mine with Angry Duck Racing.

_________________
1999 Black Bonneville SE

Mods:
3" Custom Catback Exhaust
Custom 3" Intake
MAF Screen Removed
Thrasher Shift Kit (highest setting)


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 99BonnevilleSE on 2002-04-13 19:05 ]</font>
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Old 12-31-1969, 08:00 PM   #22
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Yeah, payment methods would most likely be Paypal and Money Order/Cashiers Checks. The Paypal fee is minimal. Yeah, the GPStore'* IAT extension should work, i will doubt check w/ my neighbors 98 Grand Prix GT just in case. The aluminum duct one isnt going to be cheap and with a heat shield, its going to be as much as a AEM but as good.

And thanks, I will never give up my tint. Its 20% for the back windows/rear doors and 35% for the front windows. Here in Cali the lowest you can go without pissing off the cops for your front windows is 35%, if not, I would have gone 20% all around. And the cost for all the tint was $210 if you are curious. It took 6 hours because the back windows is one piece and he dissaembled the rear seat/deck so that the brake light is tinted also. Also the front triangular windows took him a while also, I think like 1.5 hrs for both. (I didn't watch, I just asked him).

Ok, so the tally of colors is red, green and blue.

Thanks for the response guys and I want other Bonneville Owners to benefit from this mod as much as I have.
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Old 12-31-1969, 08:00 PM   #23
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I might go carbon fiber heat shields also. I thought that would be a neat idea and such and its a possiblity. Good that I have feedback. I have a short video of my car when its cold so you get an idea of how loud it is, but once the car warms up, it goes quiet. Also shown is my 3" exhaust and how loud it is when the engine is cold also. I can make more video'* at a moments notice.

http://www.geocities.com/krusher190/...take_short.mpg

I might make some video'* to show how my suspension modifications are going as well during the summer.
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:32 AM   #24
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So when can i get my hands on one? all red.... let em know
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:33 AM   #25
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So when can i get my hands on one? all red.... let em know
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Old 08-17-2002, 10:01 AM   #26
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Default Well summer is here

Summer is here and gone so you can take me off the list b/c i am at school now and it does me no good... if there ever was a list.

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Old 08-17-2002, 02:55 PM   #27
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I know this is a contention for all parties involved (Waiting for products to happen). Often a supplier will offer a "group Purchase" and in the case of Bonnevilleí* the market is not there (big) so even group purchases have a hard time even reaching 25 people let alone the customary 50. Now that said I know that Angry duck is your only choice for a Good quality Bonneville air intake and actually they are doing us more of a favor considering the numbers and R&D cost. I donít think Angry duck even required a group purchase but I have found that through experience that most Bonneville owners are not willing to spend the money required to purchase a one off product so we have to wait for Angry duck to be prepared. No matter what happens Angry duck and my company Domestic Performance are the only companies willing to put our necks out for our cars. I am not complaining but I think it important to know that the niche known as Pontiac Bonneville performance is very very small and mostly pay check to pay check poor. Believe me I know that feeling. Actually I have spent all my Car project money on R&D and creating a website. LOL my plan has been to sell products for other Vehicles as well, so I can use the profits to gain back my investment and build more options for our cars. Both angry Duck and Domestic performance can produce almost anything you could desire for your car, but the $ or market has to be there. Donít worry if you plan to keep your car for more than another year you will see serious growth of options.

Just my take on the situation not sure exactly how Angry duck feels officially.

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Old 08-18-2002, 02:09 AM   #28
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Well said and there is nothing more I need to add. If people understood how much money I have just put into the R&D for this intake project they would be more patient. But I have been working on it all summer trying to get an airbox to make a difference but currently there is really no way to make a true CAI for the car because you need to get it out of the engine compartment and that is no possible to do it safely. The only way to do a CAI is with a custom hood with scoop. I am deciding wether or not to offere the box, most likely not to since it doesn't make a difference and I am calculating the final cost and options so please be a little more patient. The Angry Duck Tofu Racing website will be up shortly and you can check there for updates.

-Hector
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Old 08-18-2002, 03:31 AM   #29
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I'm in for one with a heat shield, and all YELLOW! and I'll wait as long as it takes!! thanks for all ur hard work and effort!
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Old 08-20-2002, 01:32 AM   #30
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I have something of a homemade, a friend of mine calls it gheto engineered, open element filter intake. I used to have some pictures of it but don't think I do anymore. I will look around and try to find some.

It was essentialy free to make as well and sounds great. Really seems to let the car rev much easier.

I work at a shop that is right next to a huge electrical supply place so evertything i need i just picked up during a slow period at work last year.

Parts list:

1 plastic air intake tube from a 1993-1997(?) Z/28 Camaro. This is the tube that connects the air box to the throtle body. I got mine from my friends 1993 z/28 but any camaro/firebird that was bult before the LS1 was offered should work even if the car came with the V6.

1 cone style air filter for a 1995 ford explorer. Yes I know I despised having the evil ford part in my car but it was free and was made by Fram and not ford which helped me feel better. The Fram number you want is CA7774 and they are about 9 bucks at evil wallyworld.

1 tube of High Temp RTV sealent. I used the clear kind.

Serreated knife or hack saw.

Two lengths of wire one foot long that are of the same guage as the wire used for Air intake temp sensor.

Wire cutters/stripper and some way to reattach the wires. I used wirenuts since I did not have a sodder gun handy.

First step is to modify the air tube from the F-Body. There is a small tube on the side of it that is about the same size as the AIT sensor. Use your hacksaw to cut it flush to the body of the tube. Now take the AIT sensor and the wrench you used to pull it out of the air box and screw the AIT sensor into the flush hole you have created. The threads on the sensor will selftap the plastic and you can easily screw the sensor completly into the airflow for a good reading.

Just remember to do this slowly and steadily to keep from damaging the threads as they form.

Second step is to glue the filter to the air tube. Now I know you are thinking that is crazy but I have had this setup on for more then a year now and have had no problems. It is best to have the filter warm when you do this since it is very tight fit on the end of tapered end of the tube. You also might want to very slightly pull on the filter to stretch the rubber some and/or put a little lube on the tapered part of the tube. I used Amsoil'* synthetic spray grease.


Slowly push the cone filter onto the tapered end of the tube untill it feels snug. Don't push too hard or too fast because you can rip the rubber part of the filter. Once it is on the tube make a note of where the filter stopped moving back onto the tube and remove the filter. Clean that part of the tube well and scuff it up with a bit of sandpaper. This will make sure the RTV sealeant seals well on the smooth plastic.

Now reinstal the filter and put a single bead of RTV sealant where the filter meets the tube. Wait a few minutes till the bead is tacky to the touch then run a second beat right next to it. Hold the filter steady till the sealant has tried enough to keep it from moving then place the assembly so it can cure for 24 hours without being knocked around. Make sure no weight is put on the filter itself to keep from moving around.

Now we are at the next to last step. The wires for the IAT sensor must be extended. Just cut the wires, make sure you don't get to two different ones mixed up, and splice in the extensions however you choose. I have been meaning to get some of the heat crimping things to replace the wirenuts on mine but just have not bothered yet. The wirenuts seem to do fine and are holding up well in the heat.

Once the sealant has cured after about 24 hours, overnight should do, just install the completed tube onto the throtlebody. The fit will be a little tight even with the hoseclamp loosend completly but slow steady pressure will get the tube on without hurting anything.

Once the tube is on you need to clearence it so nothing will hit the hood. On my car i can fit my pinky between the lowest point of the airfilter and the metal floor of the car. Other cars will probably be a little different depending on various things. The way I did it was to take a tiny bit of yellow paint and put it on the top of the AIT sensor plug. This is the highest point of the entire assembly. I took a guess on about what clearance i had on the hood and then slowly closed it completly. I opened the hood and looked to see if I had left any paint on the insulation above the filter. I just repeated this until I had the whole assembly rotated for maximum clearance between the floor of the engine bay and the hood.

Wow that was long.

I will try to get pictures of this sometime soon. I am also working on a true cold air kit using a coated metal heat shield, the air box that matches the explorer spec filter and a lenghth of hose that matches the diameter of the other inlet end of the explorer air box.
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