Uh Pete...we er...(somehow) got the bleeder kit with it

lol

no i had to re-use my reservoir, which i didnt really want to do after i looked inside it, because it was nas-tee....cleaned it up as best i could with what I had available, then put everything back together.

The bolts to the booster were hard to get off because there was not a lot of room, basically my ratchet would get about one-click....then turn...then one-click..turn....fun stuff!

Then...omg...the bolts for the lines running into it were insanely tight, i had to use a large crescent wrench to break one free....and a smaller crescent wrench with a makeshift breaker bar to get the other one loose!...rounded off one quite a bit, but itll be aight

Now i just have to wait for my dad to get home so we can bleed the brakes...old school style.

Wow, my bolts on the brake lines weren't nearly as tight. lol Glad you got it all hooked up again though!

well.......we bled the system out, did about 4-5 bleeds on each line....and things are definetely better, i took it for a drive and when you slam on the brakes it basically kicks the ABS in the whole time, instead of just pretty much going straight to the floor...so thats good.

But things just still dont seem right, I cant really explain it....You can still sit there with the car running and slowly push the pedal all the way to the floor...that shouldnt happen should it?

My pads are getting a little thin so I know that would effect pedal travel to some degree, but I cant really think of what else could be causing this, it just doesnt feel right, I mean the car still does a hardcore faceplant when you stop, the power is there, it just feels weird!

We may try bleeding the lines again, on the driver rear wheel, no air came out until like the 3-4 time, so were thinking maybe we didnt give the passenger rear wheel enough of a chance to bleed out....who knows

This still sounds a lot like air in the system. Let it bleed more. Also, do check the vacuum to the booster, and make sure you don't have any leaking caliper cylinders or rear wheel cylinders.

But your symptom of the pedal going to the floor is almost always either:
(1) Master cylinder.
(2) Need brakes bled.

And for the record I have totally heard of buying a new Master cylinder that was bad. I knew someone who didn't get a good one until the third time around.

If it continues to not satisfy me we will bleed the brakes again(I was tired of messing with it for today), and if that doesnt help, I may just not worry about it or take it to my mechanic, which i hate doing, but if its something i cant do, then I should let a pro handle it.

Mechanics usually have a "power bleeding" system, where they hook a tank of brake fluid to the master cylinder resevoir and pump a bunch of new fluid in while old fluid is drained off at the bleeder screws. This has the additional advantage of replacing a lot of old fluid with new fluid.

After a particularly nasty brake-changing experience years ago with a 1970'* Corvette, it was worth paying a mechanic to power-bleed it. That cost less than $50. It might be worth paying a mechanic to power bleed it.

One can actually buy power bleeding kits too, which usually cost under $100. <EDIT> And here is a link with info on how you can make your own:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

This is how we did Pete'* master..first we bench bled..then we hooked it up..and power bled the whole system.

In ABS do you need to start with the back passenger tire for bleeding? I know you need to with non-ABS brakes. If you don't you get that same feeling in the pedal