Changing a pressure control solenoid
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Expert Gearhead
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29,661
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From: Sheboygan Wisconsin
Changing a pressure control solenoid
Swapping a EPC solenoid on a GP today. Not a horribly hard job, but still a bit of a PITA.
Started with pulling the axles.
Then I needed to drop the sub frame. Again, not all that hard. Unbolting the steering rack was easier on a W body then on a H body. The W body the bolts can be removed with the sway bar in place, on a H body the sway bar needs to be removed. Not sure if all W bodies are this way, but this one was. After that it was just unclip the wires for the WSS, and remove on small bolt for the power steering lines. Then one engine mount and one trans mount. 4 bolts and down it went.
Then started to lower the engine. Only needs to come down a few inches.
It'* a tight fit, but the side pan just fits.
All this work, simply to replace this.
After unplugging it, I then remove this one clip.
And out comes the old solenoid.
The sad thing is, I spent more time taking those last two pictures, then I did replacing the solenoid.
Then it'* a simple mater of putting it all back together. Total time, about 5 hours.
Started with pulling the axles.
Then I needed to drop the sub frame. Again, not all that hard. Unbolting the steering rack was easier on a W body then on a H body. The W body the bolts can be removed with the sway bar in place, on a H body the sway bar needs to be removed. Not sure if all W bodies are this way, but this one was. After that it was just unclip the wires for the WSS, and remove on small bolt for the power steering lines. Then one engine mount and one trans mount. 4 bolts and down it went.
Then started to lower the engine. Only needs to come down a few inches.
It'* a tight fit, but the side pan just fits.
All this work, simply to replace this.
After unplugging it, I then remove this one clip.
And out comes the old solenoid.
The sad thing is, I spent more time taking those last two pictures, then I did replacing the solenoid.
Then it'* a simple mater of putting it all back together. Total time, about 5 hours.
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 41,391
Likes: 30
From: Enfield, CT
FWIW Dan, only the driver axle needs to come out. How did you raise/lower, the engine hoist? If so..nice job. I use the ATV jack and it works well..but hey..easier is easier. For the newbs, we might want to add that you should support the rack from above. If the bolt on the intermediate shaft isn't fantastic, it'll pull down. Could also pull the intermediate shaft out. May also help realigning the subframe to mention the alignment holes and how a large screwdriver etc makes short work of lining it up. I typically put the axles back in before the subframe, on the way back up with the subframe, put the balljoints right back into the knuckles too. Saves a ton of work on them, but it can make the sub require help aligning.
On the Bonneville when you want to get the ps rack bolts w/o pulling the sway, undo the endlinks and lift/lower the ends of the bar. I've done it a bunch of times, works like butter to get the bolts.
On the Bonneville when you want to get the ps rack bolts w/o pulling the sway, undo the endlinks and lift/lower the ends of the bar. I've done it a bunch of times, works like butter to get the bolts.
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