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Torque Specs for a 1980 Chevy Silverado C-10 Series with a 350 Diesel Engine

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Old 07-30-2012, 01:28 AM
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Default Torque Specs for a 1980 Chevy Silverado C-10 Series with a 350 Diesel Engine

A good friend of mine needs to know torque specs for this Chevy because it has a 350 diesel motor it in and they don't know how much torque is requires for the injectors since they are made into the cylinder heads on the motor. The said if it had a normal gasoline based 350 in it it would have been already fixed and back on the road. So I am turning to yall on the torque specs so they can finish tearing the motor apart to fix the blown head gasket. The problem started when they replaced the water pump, after they got the new water pump installed they noticed it was still leaking antifreeze and so they started to see where it was coming from and they found it was leaking from the driver side front of the head, so I told them I would ask yall to see if yall may know the torques specs for what I am asking about. Also to let yall know the trunk keep blowing water pump seals so when the water pump was pulled back off they used some blue silicone as the gasket for the water pump. So if yall might be able to help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
Old 07-30-2012, 01:34 AM
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I almost forgot I am also needing the torque specs to for the heads themselves to. The size of the motor is a 5.7, I thought that might be helpful to.
Old 07-30-2012, 06:43 AM
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On the 350, tighten the bolts in the illustrated sequence to 100 ft. lbs. When all the bolts have been tightened to this figure, begin the tightening sequence again, and torque all bolts to 130 ft. lbs

intake man. is 40. injector is 25
Old 07-30-2012, 01:07 PM
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So on the head bolts what sequence do you use to tighten them in.
Old 07-30-2012, 04:15 PM
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it didnt say but generally for all heads you startin the middle and work out in a spiral
Old 07-31-2012, 10:48 AM
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USE NEW BOLTS!!!!!!

This is a must on 350 diesels, if you don't it won't be long before the head gasket blows again.
GM sorted most of their Olds 350 diesel engine problems by the time they stopped making them, but by then its reputation was shot.
Plenty of mechanics working for GM dealers made the same mistake, eventually a bulletin was issued to always replace head bolts.
Make sure you buy at least oe spec replacements, the bolts are torqued real tight (btw my book recommends 140 lb.ft. starting at 50 and working up in moderate increments) and can't stand removal and retightening.

Roger.
Old 08-01-2012, 08:04 AM
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Are the head bolts torque to yield? Which means, they stretch when they are torqued to final torque.
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Old 08-01-2012, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike1995
Are the head bolts torque to yield? Which means, they stretch when they are torqued to final torque.
I believe that is the case, but for the price of a set of Goodwrench bolts it'* cheap insurance even if they are regular bolts.
Just like always replacing rod bolts if you remove them.

Btw just about all modern European cars have torque to yield head bolts.

Roger.
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