Ben... the PTFE stuff is the GM suggested goop. Looks like MAC'* permatex goop is also a good version, I'd assume most RTV'* would do the job as well.

There actually isn't any pressure where the bolts enter the oil passages, it'* merely a wicking effect.

Toasty and I swapped his upper intake and lower gaskets the other week. I think the whole procedure took about 3-4 hours.

Big things are, remember the EGR tubes crack easily and remove both the LIM and EGR ends to ensure it moves easily.
The TB bracket is a stupid design. 8mm ratcheting wrench or simply pry counter clockwise once unbolted from TB.
Don't forget the two bolts in the lower intake.

If the intake is full of coolant/goop, either use a rag or shop vac to soak it up or it'll end up going into the engine.

This your first L36 Thomas?

Just to clarify, Boosty is referring to the corrugated stainless steel tube that carries exhaust gas from the EGR valve to the lower intake manifold underneath the throttle body on the outside of the intake manifold.

So all you did was put that form-a-gasket on the threads and it hasen't leaked since?

Very good.

Keep in mind that as the LIM gaskets erode in DEX, COOLANT will come up those bolt threads as well. So sealing the threads just in the block may prevent oil wicking, but it won't prevent coolant wicking as the gaskets deteriorate.

We don't know how the new LIM gaskets hold up long-term yet, but we assume they're far better.

I just looked at my 98 LeSabre, and sure enough there is oil on top of the manifold around the LIM bolts, suggesting I have this wicking thing, too.

I'll be doing LIM gaskets on this sucker soon. I must say though, I'd be a bit leery about the effect on proper torque-ing of the bolts if using RTV on the threads...do you think that generous use of blue threadlocker would have the same wick-prevention effect?

What about using blue threadlocker on the threads, and RTV on the smooth part of the bolt (to seal the gap between the LIM through-hole and the bolt shaft)?

Following the FSM procedure should send us in the right direction. (Honestly..I haven't read it through yet)

If it says blue locktite, then use that.
If it says the pipe sealant, they use that.

Personally. I've never heard or seen an intake bolt loosen up when locktite wasn't used. I've seen then wick though.

Again, I'd like to say thanks for the feedback.
We are going to replace the LIM gaskets too.
later,

I have removed several where some of the UIM and LIM bolts were quite loose, so I like to use the blue loctite on 'em. I don't care so much about a little oil seepage. I have not seen seepage on the ones I have used loctite on, but I wouldn't trust loctite to seal threads as well as thread sealant.

Me too, I have loosened many bolts with my fingers. As a matter of fact, Ben had an oil leak on his Bonneville, I think it wa mostly due to loose bolts because i loosened about 5 bolts on the cover for the rear main oil seal with my fingers.

I know that the GM PTFE adheisive, the grey stuff, its not effected by oil & gas, it would hold the bolts.

Just to clarify, Permatex 2B is not RTV; it'* a totally different compound that never dries. It stays flexible forever and is completely oil and water proof. The only fluid that will break it down is brake fluid; which is what I use to get the stuff off my hands.

I don't think it will upset the torque value; if anything, it might cause a slight increase in torque, but not as much as oil would.