My car security lights comes on and off stays on some times won't start. I had to drive with two feet one on gas and one on brake just to keep it running was told that fuel pump was going out. Took it to my mechanic he put fuel pump on security light came back on, would not turn over I went and got it to go off by messing with my fuses. He then said he got it to running drove it around it was fine. When he went to start it again the car then was turning over but wouldn't crank, he then cleaned corrosion from battery and cleaned wires. I told him I just bought the battery in January, he said the pump is working cause he tested it and he can hear it pumping. My mechanic says it still will not start, I'm lost I don't know what to do. He thinks it'* an electrical problem, one day I was not able to drive my car for two days because of the security light but that was last year in the summer. Can someone please Help me.

for vats issues, start by cleaning the contacts on the pellet in the key or use spare. next you can bypass the reader by soldering in a resistor of the same value in under the dash. or you can replace the theft deterrent altogether by replacing the signal to the pcm with this.

http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index...roducts_id=183

Hi Justin I thanks for the help but I wanted to know if 3rdbrakeflasher still in business because I sent them an email about the part and the never responded.

my car finally started drove it for about 2 miles and it cut off then the security light started flashing wouldn't say anything then when light stopped it went out then drove about 30 feet then cut off and just cranked and wouldn't start again

i would bypass the whole useless thing if it was me. dont know anything about that site except it was the cheapest out there when i search for a bypass

I agree, there are two white sheathe covered wires under the steering wheel and when you strip them back they are yellow but if you strip those and solder in the right resistor it will bypass the security. Measure the two metal points on each side of the key to get the right resistor to match what you measured then you can solder in the right resistior.

I might be barking up the wrong tree here but, I thought the Passkey system was to prevent unauthorized starting of the vehicle. Once the system sees the correct resistor, it allows the fuel pump to run. Even if the key were completely removed, the system is supposed to stay running. Not SHUT off while driving.

gm used a bunch of different types. the earlier ones used a TDM(theft deterrent module) that sends a 50hz square wave to the pcm when the resistor is properly seen. that signal makes the pcm enable the injectors

Not sure about before 95, but 95'* the system will disable the fuel pump. 96 and above, it disables the injectors. But the main thing here is, once the car is started with a successful key, its not suppose to shut off if the VATS has in issue. I have purposely done this on my 95 to test that theory.

like i said gm used a bunch of different methods i believe 95 would be of the newer stuff and early 90'* late 80'* is the first style vats like i mentioned.

out of curiosity you try unplugging the plug on the tdm to the pcm or just taking out the key?