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Old 02-27-2014, 08:12 AM   #31
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the vehicle he has it in is already half the weight of what the engine came in, that right there would make it fun.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:20 AM   #32
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the vehicle he has it in is already half the weight of what the engine came in, that right there would make it fun.
Scotty! we need more power!
I'm giving her all she'* got captain!
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:23 AM   #33
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I recommended that he rebuild it before he put it in. And now he wants to. Don't worry mike I will help you out if you need it. Mines still running good and has had a rough break in.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:25 AM   #34
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besides something to be said for stock, you think i will just spend 12-15 hundred on heads and cam but then you tear up your trans and need a 1500 trans and custom converter then you break your double wall shaft the guy said would be good enough and you have to have a custom 3.5in shaft made out of big truck stuff at fleet pride, then you break your rear and have to have a custom axle made with all the goodies, then you cant get the tires to do anything but spin and need expensive tires and suspension upgrades, its a vicious circle.


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Old 02-27-2014, 08:28 AM   #35
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I recommended that he rebuild it before he put it in. And now he wants to. Don't worry mike I will help you out if you need it. Mines still running good and has had a rough break in.
350'* dont really wear like that unless they have over 200k, they got the mechanical stuff figured out the first few decades of the design. its just when they tried experimenting with crazy fuel crap everything went to crap on the reliability
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:32 AM   #36
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Mine had 80,000 from the junk yard and I wanted to start with everything fresh. There wasn't a lot of wear. The cylinders still had cross hatching. But it was dirty had a lot of sludge in it.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:43 AM   #37
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thats what im saying 80k is new for a sbc. if you get one that they used junk oil in or didnt change it at all though i can see it having some sludge. but all it needs is the lifter valley cleaned, under the valve covers, intake manifolds, and then run some seafoam through it to get the passages. you dont need to replace the mechanical things, rings pistons, bearings, etc
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:48 PM   #38
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:47 PM   #39
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:00 PM   #40
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the lifters on this engine for stock applications last for 2 to 300k and so do all the other mechanical things. i have been told by a bunch of respected engine builders and racers 10psi per thousand is good enough even for a hydraulic race engine.

i just remembered mikes real problem anyway. i told him not to use the POS poppets when he put this engine in there because they are the worst thing gm ever did to a small block and he put the junk stock ones in it anyway instead of doing the conversion and just changed his fueling to mask the real issue. to put that in 3800 terms you have a l36 thats hydrolocking and want to only replace the head gaskets not the lim gaskets and uim
Supposed Service life, and actual can very. For all we known the rocker studs or arm nuts are lose, or even a valve keepers dis-lodged and the other one is wedged in.

Last 3.8V6 I did was a 2003 Lesabre. Nice owner, car was a total POS nightmare. Warped intake. Fixed with new gaskets, coolant tube seals, water pump, thermostat, Pressure tested cooling system. 2 weeks later Front head warps!

The customer got mad that I couldn't get the electrical gremlins to all go away. Would fix one issue, next day it would have a new issue. She took that car to 5 other people and finally traded it in on a Lucerne.

Normally people bring me basket cases to diagnose and repair. Especially after every inbred and their goober family has had a go at it.
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