2000 Bonny shaking
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 43
From: Sheboygan Wisconsin






Can you tell where the shaking is coming from, front, back, left right. It could be a number of things. Wheel out of balance, shifted belt in tire. warped rotor, bad CV joint. Knowing where the problem is will help us figure it out.
It is definetly coming from the engine. When I accelerate around 50 mph, it begins to shake. When I let off the gas, it stops. I have replaced the plugs, fuel filter, air filter and PCV valve. I have heard of this problem and was told it could be a broken or loose motor mount, clogged fule injectors (which I've had cleaned) or worst case, a tranny problem. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help by the way!
When you say jack up front end, do you mean both wheels off the ground? And then, how would I check the wheels for play and what would be the tall tell sign of motor mounts being loose? Thanks again fro your help and patience!
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 43
From: Sheboygan Wisconsin






check for play by turning, pulling, tipping, etc. That will check bearings, CV joint, things like that. The motor mount you just look for wear. If you see anything that don't look right, take a picture and post it.
Hi David: I've got the SAME thing happening in my 2000 SSEI I just bought. Replaced the plugs,wires, fuel filter and checked the suspension, tie rods, u joints, etc... on a hoist with my mechanic which were fine. Then we drove it and it was still shaking and shimmying at 40-60 so we looked at the transmission and motor mounts. The front transmission mount that is straight down from the radiator is so loose the whole engine torques up and rotates when you test it in the following manner: my mechanic had me put my foot on the service brake, he stood off to the side with the hood up and I gave it some acceleration up to about 1,500 RPM'*. and the whole engine torqued up and forward toward the front bumper. We did the same thing in reverse and had similar results. We then put it in park and rolled the car back and forth by rocking the front part of the car, and we could clearly see the mount was very loose on the right front. I priced it at $90 and he'* putting it in for $30 so it'll be $120 total. The car is a one owner, only has 55k, had a clean car fax, needed a tune up and now this mount, so I hope I'm out of the woods. I'll say in closing I had this 3.8L SCharged V-6 engine in my Buick Regal and it went 170K with virtually no problems., so I hope this info. helped and didn't mean to write a dissertation: especially for my first post.
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 29,661
Likes: 43
From: Sheboygan Wisconsin






This is the mount that is mentioned. Also why I mentioned it in my first post. This is on a 97 but should be very close.

My bolt fell out and I found this when I was installing headers. The shock part looked normal, I had no idea the bolt was gone until I grabbed it.

My bolt fell out and I found this when I was installing headers. The shock part looked normal, I had no idea the bolt was gone until I grabbed it.
Nice forum. My problem is actually with the transmission mount. If you stand straight over the radiator with your forehead line up with it and look straight down, the bad TransMount is straight down and to the right. It'* real obvious and I'll try to get a pic and post it, but my digital cam has been on the fritz lately. I'm getting it in Monday to get fixed and hope it clears up the problem. What freaks me out is the possiblity of a torque convertor being bad or sensor of some sort, because the thing just isn't running out right when you lay the hammer down and really accelerate. My mechanic said that it could be the mount but I dunno.....he hooked up his hand held diagnostic tester to it and it came back clean. He had a real nice one that also checked the tranny, etc... and it was all clean. So I've got my fingers crossed it'* just that F'ing Tmount. Thanks for your help and input BTW.




